Tom Pecheux for Estée Lauder’s Pure Color Night collection includes the Naughty Black eyeshadow (Pure Color Ombre Effect EyeShadow, L’ombre a paupieres) ($20), is an ombre of three very closely-matched deep blackened brown shades designed for drama.

The Pure Color Night collection is Tom Pecheux’s entre into Estée Lauder.  This eyeshadow trio, originally intended to be sold exclusively in Paris but now expanding to London and New York, reflect Parisian beauty.  Certainly applying this all over the eye area with intensity would be perfect for an evening smokey eye.  However, by using a lighter application, combined with a few heavier shadings, you will also have a wonderful daytime eye.

Packaged in a translucent blue-black case with a mirror and sponge brush, the trio includes:

  • On the left, a metallic deep brown shade with shimmer;
  • A middle shade that is slightly lighter with a slight shimmer; and
  • A deep matte brown-black shade (on the right side of the compact).

Small criticism:  I’m not crazy about the packaging.  The outside is a pretty color, but the gold trim looks a little dated to me.  It would have been fun to use a different interior color or texture to distinguish Pure Color Night from Estée Lauder’s regular line. Dear Estée Lauder–the lid displays your name, we get it.  Maybe be more playful with the design of the Tom Pecheux compacts to let his voice shine through?  Also, sponge applicator?  Give us more powder, or less packaging and I’m fine without that little applicator.  It usually falls out when I’m juggling things at my mirror anyway.

The pigmentation and application of this trio is absolutely beautiful.  The pigment is so finely milled, again I am very surprised at how this seems to become part of the skin.  Where does the powder go–it seems to leave pure color behind.  I am a great admirer of products that seem to get the science right–that is, does the designer seem to understand chemistry, and how color interacts with light and the skin?  This is one of the reasons that drew me to the Shu Uemura line, and this trio is in the same tradition.

There is no highlight shade with this trio–this is formated as a single eyeshadow and not a palette.  Plus, it’s called “Naughty Black.”  If you wish, you can apply these eyeshadows with just a whisper of color as you approach the brow.  Or add a white or ivory from your collection if you wish to  add a brow bone color.

When applying the product, the pigment seems to go naturally where one would want to place it.  So far, I’ve used the trio successfully with five different brushes–each one seems to give a different effect.  Below, I’ve swatched using a very heavy application–multiple layers for maximum pigmentation:

Here, I played with a sharp-edged eyeliner brush and a single layer of application.  Each of the three shades are portrayed.  On the right is a very light smudge swiped with a Chanel tapered blending brush:

Here, I had a Jackson Pollack moment, playing with a standard Chanel #2 eyeshadow brush using both heavy and light application.  This is six swatches total:  each of the three Naughty Black shades, with one heavy and one light application.  I think that you can see that you could do an beautiful ombre eye with this trio:

I have to say that this little trio impressed me.  The quality is extremely high–the pigmentation is absolutely beautiful. Using a variety of techniques, one could accomplish a lovely eyeshadow look.  The very limited edition Pure Color Night line is well worth exploring.  Considering the high quality of this compact, I love that this was only $20 (!)-its adds quite a bit of versatility to my eyeshadow collection.  I definitely want to see more (and more!) of the Tom Pecheux- Estée Lauder collaboration.

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