Estée Lauder is collaborating with Tom Pecheux, the prominent makeup artist and designer responsible for the introduction of Estée Lauder’s new Pure Color Series. If you have not been near your Estée Lauder counter recently, you may be unaware that new eyeshadow singles, glosses and lipsticks are replacing vast former categories of the Estée Lauder line. Tom Pecheux is credited as being responsible for those changes.
In June, I reviewed a few pieces from Tom Pecheux’s initial foray into Estée Lauder’s line, the Pure Color Night series. You can see my reviews of two items–the Naughty Black eyeshadow trio and the Pure Color Luminous Powder–here on Café Makeup. As an aside, according to this source, thirty (30) sets of the Pure Color Night series–the eyeshadow, highlighter and lipgloss–will be sold in a set at Bergdorf Goodman on September 10th, to celebrate New York’s Fashion’s Night Out on a first come, first served basis.
Estée Lauder’s Blue Dahlia eyeshadow palette ($42) is part of the lines Fall 2010 and, thankfully, much more widely available than Pure Color Night. This five-color eyeshadow palette is designed in a pinwheel-type pattern, in a slim gold palette packaged with two tiny brushes. Three of the brushes have lightweight sponge applicators. The top cover has a large, usable mirror.
The quality of the eyeshadows are excellent, I’m quite impressed with their pigmentation. Although I found them difficult to finger-swatch, I found that they drenched my eyeshadow brushes easily in rich, pigmented color.
The colors, starting with the top left:
- Rich, deep shimmery teal;
- Warm-to-neutral shimmery taupe, ideal as an all-over lid color;
- Deep blue/navy with shimmer;
- Sheer sparkle overlay, infused with purple/pink and white microshimmer;
- In the center, a well-pigmented black with microshimmers, suitable as a liner or to smoke the outer corner or outer crease.
One conspicuous aspect of this palette is the lack of any opaque highlighter shade. The white pan applies extremely sheerly, giving a fairy sparkle rather than a solid highlighter base. Once put on the browbone, the shade that appears white in the pan gives a light blue-purple-periwinkle sheer sheen, but not the typical skin-tone lightening opacity that many of us have grown used to.
Perhaps Tom Pecheux is asking us to re-think the concept of a browbone highlighter. Always one for throwing out old rules, I have no reason but to wear this palette using the fairy-sparkle pan on the browbone for evening. For day, I may rely on a matte light cream shade (Chanel Ivory is nice) or going without.
Just for fun, I tried using the fairy-sparkle shade over the blue shades which I applied wet on the swatches, below. It came out delightfully vibrant, although my brush was barely damp:
This picture tells the whole story:
- On the left, the white pressed powder becomes a sheer sparkle leaves only a nascent shimmer when applied;
- The taupe is a pretty, light-toned color with a lovely shimmer;
- The teal is a rich warm green-blue, that becomes quite intense when used with a damp brush and layered in sparkle (to the right of the black shade);
- The deep navy is pretty, and hits a very deep, pigmented note when used wet with the sparkle overlay (swatch at the far right)
- The center black has a slight sheen due to the light microsparkles.
Playing with this palette for a few days, I achieved a nice, everyday look using the taupe as my primary lid color. I used the black as my liner, then added the deep blue/navy using a damp brush over the area above the black liner, smudged. The teal color looked equally nice using this same technique.
Estee Lauder's Promotional Image for the Blue Dahlia Palette
Time will tell whether I would ever use the palette more dramatically, or whether Estée Lauder’s promotional picture is only inspirational.
1946 film "Blue Dahlia," a dark and brooding film noir
This season is bringing may blues, purples and taupes– all traditional deep, rich colors for the fall season. Of all of them, I’m glad to have picked up Blue Dahlia. The quality of the eyeshadows is lovely. This cool blue color palette is not something that I would traditionally buy, I was unable to resist something from Tom Pecheux based on my former favorable experiences with Pure Color Night. Like Pure Color Night, Blue Dahlia is pushing me to re-think my traditional all-neutral look. I am unable to wear acid greens or neon blues, I have neither the lifestyle, coloring or the inclination for bright reds on my lid. Nonetheless, the teal and blue in Blue Dahlia seem appropriately rich and interesting, and when used with the warm taupe make Blue Dahlia a highly wearable palette.
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