Chanel Eyeshadow

Chanel Tentation Cuivree

October 15, 2010

Perhaps one of the most anticipated items in Chanel Holiday 2010, Les Tentations de Chanel, is the eyeshadow quad, Tentation Cuivree ($56, limited edition) (Les 4 Ombres, Ombres a Paupieres Quatuor/ Quadra Eye Shadow).

Roughly translated to “Copper Temptation” in French, Tentation Cuivree includes for shades using the international formulation–that is, with four round pans with a baked texture.  When compared to the soft-square shape of the U.S. formulation, the powder texture of the international formula is harder to the touch.  Compare Chanel’s recent Stupendous from the Soho collection for an example of the traditional U.S. formula, with the round, uneven texture of Tentation Cuivree:

Tentation Cuivree is labeled “Made in France,” and I’ve heard from several sources (none of them official from Chanel) that Chanel is consolidating its manufacturing there.  I have also heard from several sources (again, not Chanel) that Chanel is transitioning out the square-pan, softly pressed powder U.S. formula.

It was with some trepidation that I began using Tentation Cuivree, as I am familiar with the international formula from my travels.  After several days, I found that the pigment of Tentation Cuivree is rich, and the combination of the colors quite easy to wear.

The colors include:

  • A bone off-white for highlighting the browbone and inner corner (upper right)
  • A soft neutral pink that makes a nice all over base (lower left)
  • A medium shimmery brown (upper left)
  • A deep coppery brown liner color (lower right)

Like the other international formulations that I’ve tried, there is a fairly high level of glitter bits laced throughout each pan of Tentation Cuivree. When swatched dry, the pigmentation was quite good but there was a high level of fallout.

Used wet, the fallout was far more controlled (as you might expect) and some of the glitter seemed to melt to create a slightly metallic finish.

I can report that this quad holds up quite well used wet.  I (accidently) soaked the deep copper color with an overly wet brush. Although my heart sank when I did it, I found that the pan did not seem to change consistency or color after drying.  Based on this and similar experiences, I’m very comfortable using this palette wet.

More swatches, so you can see these in different lighting:

These colors are beautiful, and I was able to do a very pretty eye using the medium brown shade as an overall lid shade, coupled with the bone as a highlighter color, and using the liner color over my Bobbi Brown Chocolate Shimmer Gel Eyeliner.  The colors remained quite vibrant over several long (14 hours or so) days, using a primer (Urban Decay Primer Potion).  The copper color is flattering, and not so deep that it was overwhelming on my small lids.  Really, these colors are highly wearable.

All that being true, I cannot help wishing that these colors had been delivered in the U.S. softer powder formula.  Specifically, the glitter is troubling to me. After wearing Tentation Cuivree for a few long 14-hour days, I saw glitter bits winking back at my in my mirror.

I have become used to relying on Chanel to give me an eye that I can wear, literally, anywhere.  There are times in many women’s lives when the pressure is on, and you want to look extremely polished for a day look.  I must admit that, when it came right down to it, on a recent high-pressure day I chose Chanel Stupendous over Tentation Cuivree. I don’t want pieces of glitter on my lid or an errant fall-out glitter bit on my lashes to distract.

Let me be clear–I love some palettes for their glitter–indeed, Chanel’s Enigma is a lovely quad that has some glitter.   What concerns me is that several other Chanel international quads share this same characteristic.  For example, here is a former limited-release Galets quad that uses this same formula for comparison:

Galets was part of an Asia-only release called the Beige collection, which featured nude shades.  As one example, the nude blush that was part of this collection was so matte and soft it was barely discernible.   Yet Galets evidences glitter and fallout when swatched dry, and a metallic look swatched wet.  If you look closely at the swatches (click if you wish to enlarge), you can see the shimmery bits:

If it true that Chanel is consolidating operations in France, I hope that they continue to make some quads in the U.S. square panned formula.  I’ve grown to love (and depend) on that formula and would be very sorry to see it go.  At a minimum, I hope that Chanel develops eyeshadows without the glitter and metal.

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  • carolina October 15, 2010 at 6:42 am

    i am so glad to have found your blog. Now i don’t feel bad when i know that there is a fellow Chanel fanatic out there who understands why Chanel cosmetics is just so irresistible 🙂 Oh and it’s great to see a preview of what collections are coming since i’m from Australia and we’re so delayed in receiving the latest items 🙁

  • LipstickChick October 15, 2010 at 8:29 am

    Beautiful swatches 🙂

    I so wanted to love this quad, but got the chance to swipe the tester at my counter, and though the colors look so VERY me in the pan, they morphed into a more purple undertone on my skin, which I can’t wear at all (strangely, even the light beige shade did this). I was simultaneously thrilled (saved $$) and saddened (but it looked SO pretty, and I WANTED it, damnit LOL).

    The Stupendous quad you referenced looks so very similar to my Mystic Eyes quad, so I’m happy I have something *almost* like it, as Stupendous is very beautiful!

    And I totally get what you mean about getting a no-fail look from Chanel’s shadows … I gave up the Tentaion Cuivree quad, but chose instead a duo from them in the lightest beige/brown shade (no clue what the name is now), and I’ve worn it daily since getting it last week.

    Totally unheard of in my life LOL.

  • Eileen October 15, 2010 at 9:44 am

    I adore the colors in this quad full of copper temptation, but the formula, not so much. I haven’t had much fallout, but I use it over a base by Kanebo which is meant for those of us with dry skin. The base doesn’t dry matte, so perhaps that’s the difference. The base is giving the glitter something to stick to.

    At 62 I can’t wear glitter, glitz, or frost anywhere near the inner corner of the eye, so I use Chanel’s Lily as a base lid color. It’s a very light blush pink. I begin using the warm pink from the quad over the iris and extend it out and up. The blush tinged ivory goes on the brow bone, the medium warm brown goes in the crease, the < , and along the upper and lower lash line. I use Le Stylo Yeaux in Cassis to line my eyes and then smoke the line with the dark copper brown. I love that particular color. It's warm plum depths is shot through with copper which gives it an ember glow. Yes, indeed, I adore Le Tentation Cuivrée!

  • Amy October 15, 2010 at 9:48 am

    Guess we’ll agree to disagree Susie. Thanks for you comment. I don’t have a problem with the pan shape either. That is an easy way for me to distinguish between the formulas for my US readers. But I suppose if you are a lawyer you are a careful reader and know that already.

  • Winthrop44 October 15, 2010 at 10:41 am

    I love the quad but have to agree with you on the formula in general, Amy. I wrote to Chanel thru their web site this morning and they responded with good news: “The European Baked formula will only be present in certain limited edition items. Please be assured that the American Non-Baked formula will remain in our eyeshadow collection.”

    • Eileen October 15, 2010 at 5:02 pm

      Contacting Chanel was a great idea! If we all did that, we could show them that there really is a very strong preference for the creamy, smooth US formula. I could care less about the shape of the shadows in the quad. For so many of us it’s all about the sophisticated and elegant formula.

      • Amy October 15, 2010 at 5:45 pm

        I like that idea too Eileen–I’m in! 🙂

  • Lakshmi October 15, 2010 at 11:45 am

    Hi Amy! I love this quad and am very pleased with it so far but I totally agree that the sheen of the US formula is quite something else. I have never found any other company to make shadows that blend so well and give the same polished finish. From my first ever Chanel quad in Winter Nights to more recent ones like Kaska Beige and Enigma, I enjoy the luxury of the US texture shadows and blushes. Thanks to Winthrop44, let’s hope that Chanel will release many more US formula products for all of us to enjoy! 🙂
    Hope you have a good weekend!

  • Nicolle October 15, 2010 at 1:49 pm

    I bought this quad and wore it for the first time today. I do notice it has more glitter than my other Chanel quads. I don’t notice too much fall out but I am going to try it wet. I have Stupendous as well and will likely use that more just because I like the texture better and there is no glitter. When I first saw this quad I really liked the colors but wasn’t too crazy about the glitter. The SA put it on and I liked the result but I left w/o purchasing. I ended up going back the next day and getting it. I think the colors drew me in but I do wish as well that this was the regular US formula.

  • Jennise October 15, 2010 at 2:13 pm

    I will be giving this quad a miss. We’ve only have ever had the round pan formula so I can’t add any comment to that. But the colours all seem to be ordinary to me. There’s other items in the collection that I think are more worthy to splurge on.

  • Kate October 15, 2010 at 2:55 pm

    I’ve been loving the Chanel Holiday ad for some time now. But when I’ve tried on the Holiday quad-hoping to recreate that beautiful copper glow in the ad, the colors turn purple on me. I’ve tried the quad in a few different stores, and even tried adding the Splash Ombre D’eau underneath, but still no luck. What has been your experience with this? Does it appear more plum than copper once on your lids?

    Thanks for the review!

    • Amy October 15, 2010 at 3:04 pm

      Kate-this is a warm coppery brown on my NC15 skin tone, I used the light blush pink as a base color. Note that LipstickChick (see her comment, above) did have the quad turn plum on her, even the lightest shade. I wonder if there is a color or chemical reaction with some? Thank you for your comment–this is something to look out for. 🙂

  • luv2smilexo October 16, 2010 at 8:30 pm

    I am so upset that this is the euro formula 🙁 🙁 I had higher hopes for it when I heard good things, but I swatched it yesterday at Nordstrom and was just not at all impressed. I really hope they go back to the square pan formula. I also got a chance to swatch the new gloss formula (finally). It was absolutely lovely! So pigmented.

  • Anitacska October 17, 2010 at 10:38 am

    I really like this quad. Also why do I not own Galets???

    • Amy October 17, 2010 at 12:50 pm

      Galets was only available for a very short time in Asia, and never released elsewhere as far as I know. Even there it sold out in days as I recall. Pleases do not feel bad, I’ve missed too many micro releases too!

  • Molly P-H October 17, 2010 at 11:48 am

    I got my quad of Tentation Cuivree yesterday and can’t wait to use it Monday morning!! I swore I wasn’t going to cave on another Chanel LE quad but then I tried those coppers on my blue eyes and pulled out the wallet :).

  • Natalie December 7, 2010 at 4:31 pm

    I use this with my NARS smudgeproof eyeshadow base and there is no fallout whatsoever. I do not mind the Euro/baked formula as the fine glitters seem very smooth and elegant, unlike of MAC’s Mineralized shadows etc 😀 Thanks so much for the review 🙂