Perhaps one of the most anticipated items in Chanel Holiday 2010, Les Tentations de Chanel, is the eyeshadow quad, Tentation Cuivree ($56, limited edition) (Les 4 Ombres, Ombres a Paupieres Quatuor/ Quadra Eye Shadow).
Roughly translated to “Copper Temptation” in French, Tentation Cuivree includes for shades using the international formulation–that is, with four round pans with a baked texture. When compared to the soft-square shape of the U.S. formulation, the powder texture of the international formula is harder to the touch. Compare Chanel’s recent Stupendous from the Soho collection for an example of the traditional U.S. formula, with the round, uneven texture of Tentation Cuivree:
Tentation Cuivree is labeled “Made in France,” and I’ve heard from several sources (none of them official from Chanel) that Chanel is consolidating its manufacturing there. I have also heard from several sources (again, not Chanel) that Chanel is transitioning out the square-pan, softly pressed powder U.S. formula.
It was with some trepidation that I began using Tentation Cuivree, as I am familiar with the international formula from my travels. After several days, I found that the pigment of Tentation Cuivree is rich, and the combination of the colors quite easy to wear.
The colors include:
- A bone off-white for highlighting the browbone and inner corner (upper right)
- A soft neutral pink that makes a nice all over base (lower left)
- A medium shimmery brown (upper left)
- A deep coppery brown liner color (lower right)
Like the other international formulations that I’ve tried, there is a fairly high level of glitter bits laced throughout each pan of Tentation Cuivree. When swatched dry, the pigmentation was quite good but there was a high level of fallout.
Used wet, the fallout was far more controlled (as you might expect) and some of the glitter seemed to melt to create a slightly metallic finish.
I can report that this quad holds up quite well used wet. I (accidently) soaked the deep copper color with an overly wet brush. Although my heart sank when I did it, I found that the pan did not seem to change consistency or color after drying. Based on this and similar experiences, I’m very comfortable using this palette wet.
More swatches, so you can see these in different lighting:
These colors are beautiful, and I was able to do a very pretty eye using the medium brown shade as an overall lid shade, coupled with the bone as a highlighter color, and using the liner color over my Bobbi Brown Chocolate Shimmer Gel Eyeliner. The colors remained quite vibrant over several long (14 hours or so) days, using a primer (Urban Decay Primer Potion). The copper color is flattering, and not so deep that it was overwhelming on my small lids. Really, these colors are highly wearable.
All that being true, I cannot help wishing that these colors had been delivered in the U.S. softer powder formula. Specifically, the glitter is troubling to me. After wearing Tentation Cuivree for a few long 14-hour days, I saw glitter bits winking back at my in my mirror.
I have become used to relying on Chanel to give me an eye that I can wear, literally, anywhere. There are times in many women’s lives when the pressure is on, and you want to look extremely polished for a day look. I must admit that, when it came right down to it, on a recent high-pressure day I chose Chanel Stupendous over Tentation Cuivree. I don’t want pieces of glitter on my lid or an errant fall-out glitter bit on my lashes to distract.
Let me be clear–I love some palettes for their glitter–indeed, Chanel’s Enigma is a lovely quad that has some glitter. What concerns me is that several other Chanel international quads share this same characteristic. For example, here is a former limited-release Galets quad that uses this same formula for comparison:
Galets was part of an Asia-only release called the Beige collection, which featured nude shades. As one example, the nude blush that was part of this collection was so matte and soft it was barely discernible. Yet Galets evidences glitter and fallout when swatched dry, and a metallic look swatched wet. If you look closely at the swatches (click if you wish to enlarge), you can see the shimmery bits:
If it true that Chanel is consolidating operations in France, I hope that they continue to make some quads in the U.S. square panned formula. I’ve grown to love (and depend) on that formula and would be very sorry to see it go. At a minimum, I hope that Chanel develops eyeshadows without the glitter and metal.