Guerlain’s Fall 2010 introduction of beautifully detailed 6-eyeshadow palettes includes 10 Rue des Francs-Bourgeouis ($84 Ecrin 6 Couleurs). This series, each one named after a Guerlain boutique in Paris, includes several neutral shades that are intended to be used in a tone-on-tone manner that can be built to smoke the eye, with a centerpiece color intended to add some spark.
Café Makeup previously reviewed the overall architecture of these palettes here. Created by furniture designer India Mahdavi, these are both elegant and usable.
The palette is a sleek magnet closure, which opens at a deliberate but gentle touch. The mirror escalates open to one side, leaving the eyeshadow area conveniently uninhibited by the lid. The outer silver-toned filigree lid is beautiful, and is nicely made and without rough edges. According to a Guerlain representative that I spoke to, the inner lid sits flat against the inner dividers–this means that if an eyeshadow should shatter, the powder will stay in its pan, maintaining the overall integrity of the palette.
The two-sized brush is hair (not sponge). One side is soft for sweeping on color and blending. It’s fine in a pinch, although I prefer to use a full size brush any time one is available.
The other side is a very stiff brush for eyeliner or brows. Keep in mind that a stiff brush is very handy for brows and eye liner. I’ve used this side a few times, as well as my full-size liner and brow brushes:
This palette is a highly useable for a tone-on-tone look. Except for the center shade, the colors are near-matte. If I use just the light shadows, it looks like I’m not wearing any eyeshadow at all. This can be useful on some occasions, when I want to look polished but not made-up.
As these shades are close to matte, shades #1 and #2 barely show on my MAC NC15/Chanel Intensity 1.0 (Cameo/Ivoire) face. This is not because the shades are sheer. Rather it is because they nearly match the skin tone. Unlike NARS All About Eve, this palette does not have a neutral shimmer shade. Notice that Shade 1, the highlighter shade, is similar in texture and color to my arm. Shade #1 sort of melts into my skintone and almost disappears on my browbone.
If you use mostly the lighter shades with this with this palette (#1, #2 and a dab of #3), you may wonder why you paid $84 for it–really, it’s very subtle. That’s true for me too, but allow me tell you that there are (many) social and business situations in my own life when adding just a little subtle shadow is the right thing to do.
This palette really starts to show its excellence when you add shades #4 and #6, and starts to sing like a chorus when you add the gold #5. It was sitting with a Guerlain Artist for twenty minutes and this palette that finally taught me that pale women look awesome with a smokey eye using a high-quality eyeshadow. Here’s what we did:
- Shade 1 all over (soft brush)
- Shade 2 on the lid (soft brush)
- Shade 3 on the most of the lid except for the very inner corner (soft brush); undereye (smudge)
- Shade 4 in the crease (soft brush) and brows (stiff brush)
- Shade 6 as a liner (stiff brush), and in the very outer crease (soft brush). Blend up and out the liner at the corner for more serious smoke
Guerlain artist using 10 Francs Bourgeois on Liz
Final effect:
I find myself using 10 Francs Bourgeois more often than I imagined, particularly because I know that it can give me a dusky eye that I can comfortably and believably pull off. Although they are both neutral palettes, the Guerlain is the opposite of Urban Decay’s Naked Palette in some ways:
- Naked’s texture is softer. Guerlain’s is more trouble-free. I find using normal pressure, I get just the right amount of shadow using Guerlain’s. I have to be more careful of over-doing it with Urban Decay’s, which is also prone to fallout.
- Some of Naked’s shades have sparkle, or an overall metallic look. It’s pretty for what it does, but the Guerlain is far more natural. For example, Liz and I had lunch in the San Francisco Neiman’s stained-glass-roof restaurant after this makeover (white tablecloths, quite nice if you haven’t been), and we both felt quite elegant and appropriate there. The Naked colors give an edgier, stronger, metal impression.
Having said all this, I want to talk about the center gold shade of 10 Francs Bourgeois. If you are not using the smokey tones in the palette (and even if you are) it does really give a beautiful drama to the lid. A wash of this shadow, which comes across as this gorgeous bronze-copper-gold glow, makes this palette works so well for me. This is work-appropriate drama, drama that doesn’t look like its trying too hard. Like a good perfume, the look is not overwhelming but distinctly present.
I’ve also used this gold shade #5 under my eye with a smudged darker shade as an under eye liner; the texture is finely milled enough so that it blends smoothly into the skin. I would have trouble doing this with Naked, as the colors are quite a bit stronger and the texture is not as fine.
Of course, this means that 10 Francs Bourgeois works beautifully as a canvas for any other dramatic shades in your collection, particularly if they are warm-toned. Overall, I find myself using this palette about once a week. I’ve been impressed with its practicality, as well as its beauty.
20 Responses to “Guerlain 10 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois”
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I have no problems spending $30 dollars on lipsticks with a $28 coordinating lip gloss. I was fine throwing down $30 for a single eyeshadow. I just threw down serious money on my very first grown up perfume and not an eau de toilette either. It’s still a bit much for me to swallow to pay $84 for that compact. It is gorgeous and I am a sucker for packaging.
UGH no wonder why I can never save up for that LV purse I always wanted!!
I have been so very impressed by Guerlain’s Écran 6 Couleurs. I know that for many people $84 a pop seems exorbitant, but if you use all six colors in various combinations, it works out to just $14 a pan for a collection of beautifully coordinated colors that come in a case that is a veritable work of art. I purchased Rue de Sévres, Rue de Passy, and Place Vendôme and am using one of them at least once a week, and many times, more often. These palettes are composed of highly refined colors that echo and support each other. So, when someone asks if they are easily duped, the answer is no, they aren’t. You can come close, but the undertones in the neutrals are all skewed in such a way as to reinforce the center pop of color. These are elegant, well planned, and beautifully executed collections that can go from sedate to dramatic as your description of work appropriate looks followed by the picture of Liz’ stunning smoky eye so clearly illustrate. When I saw this golden collection for the first time, I immediately thought that it would be perfect for blue eyes. I bet this actually makes for a prettier smoky eye on Liz than the usual blacks and grays–although Liz is always so lovely in all the things she models for us.
Ugh! This palette is GORGEOUS! I’m debating between this and another color way. I had initially passed on getting any palette but since it’s available on Sephora (with 20% off!) I’m caving! What are your thoughts on Rue de Passy? =)
Hi Connie. Eileen here. Rue de Passy is a a selection that creates a beautiful warm pink or light plum look. It can be used for a subtle daytime look or it can be used to create a more dramatic one such as the smoky eye Liz is wearing. The deep plum with bronze shimmer (next to the lining shade) is worth the price of admission as far as I’m concerned. My eyes are a deep moss green so these colors really make them sparkle. I’ve read a couple bloggers describe this palette as mauve and I’m sure you can create that effect if that’s the direction you want to take. I hope this is helpful.
Hi Connie–Eileen is quite right–Rue de Passy gives a beautiful mauve/plum effect. I haven’t had time to dig into mine so I haven’t done a review yet–hopefully I can do a review soon.
would you ladies recommend this to someone that has dark brown eyes and dark complexion – Chanel Soft Honey Teint Innocence.
That’s a tough call Lexi–I know that the deep smoky shades might look nice, but I’m not sure how the lighter shades would translate–These are permanent additions to the line, so it may be worth waiting until you can try it at a counter before investing.
Liz looks wonderful with these eye shadows on. I have the Extravagant gold palette from Estee Lauder and I have to notice that it is very close to this Guerlain one, with two caveats: shades are satin, not matte and price wise is half of Guerlain’s. I do not have many neutral palettes, hence getting the EL. It is funny how high end brands come up with very similar palettes this year- Guerlain, EL, Dolce Gabbana work in the very same neutrals for holidays.
HI Liliana–I’m so curious about Estee’s–I want to try that one out too. I do love the price point of the EL–and I quite agree. Even Chanel’s had a decided neutral theme. Perhaps the companies are going for broad appeal this year? Thanks for your comment!
Do you use Shade 6 as a wet liner or a dry liner? I’ve seesawed on this palette for a couple of weeks now because I fear the colors are just repeats of the shades I already own. Your comparison with the Naked Palette was useful. But if Shade 6 doesn’t budge when used as a wet liner, I’m in!
Hi Megan. I don’t know what Amy or Liz’ experience has been, but I use the liner wet and I haven’t had any problem with it. Amy? Liz?
Beautiful! I’m so glad that I bought this palette – and I will love it even more now that I have your tips and how-to’s. Thank you Amy!
Liz looks beautiful, as usual! What blush and/or bronzer is she wearing here? The whole look really suits her.
Hi Jess, it is Guerlains Terracotta Lady– a baked blush. It has highlighting built in. We bought one that day for her, but it was their last. I later found one on Nordstrom.com for myself. Enjoy!
Thanks!
I may be wrong but I think that Guerlain bronzer/blush looks similar to trash mcevoys new pick me up blush/bronzer palette.
Thank you for this detailed review! I was waiting to get the Naked palette, but after reading your review, I think this one would work better for me as a young professional.
I agree the longer I wait to buy the Naked palette I lose interest in it.
After getting one of these, I feel like returning the Naked Palette (but I probably won’t, I just won’t use it)! The fallout from UD is really bad. I also have Rue de Passy, which I love!
Amy, have you tried your Rue de Passy yet? I have just loved this palette and the ease of use. We don’t have a Guerlain counter but I’ve been eyeing (online) the Passy, Vendome and Champs Elysses. Wondering what you might think of those colorways….