ddCan you tell that it’s Haute Couture week in Paris? Dior seems to be entirely renewed with the work of its lead fashion designer Raf Simons, who showed his work against a wall of orchids at Paris’ Rodin Museum. This year’s haute couture used graphic shape as the canvas for the complex handwork embroidery and modern details that is setting new standards for the historic haute couture craft. The show featured embroidered silk coats,elegant ball skirts and soft, sophisticated color.

1082000The shoes. The shoes.

en_backstage_du_d__fil___dior_haute_couture_automne_hiver_2014_2015__282706317_north_883x.1Like the makeup, the haute couture finishes draw one in. I find myself wanting to see all of the handwork that has been integrated into these modern designs.




Backstage, Dior’s beauty genius Peter Philips cut out seventy pairs of silver adhesive eyeliner. Dior will be selling ready-made versions of them around the holidays.


Said Philips, “The collection explored contradictions, so we wanted to keep it pretty and pure. I just wanted to add one element that was highly contrasting and artificial,” he explained. Metallic liner emerged as the ideal counterpoint to the mirror-and-orchid set. Philips calls it the “empty eye” because no mascara was used. I must admit, the no-to-minimal mascara with a touch of metal is growing on me.


Philips used a touch of white kohl on the lower lashes, as well as some yellow and white shadows from the forthcoming Candy Choc palette subtly near the brows (for a preview image of this brightly-colored Dior Fall palette, see the British Beauty Blogger).


Philips used Dior’s new Star Foundation on most models (for drier complexions, he used Dior’s Capture). Will this foundation be released soon, soon, soon? The British Beauty Blogger has a mini-review of it here.


Philips used Dior Blush in Rose Corolle and Starlight on the cheekbones (available internationally in October), and  Rouge Dior lipstick in Trompe L’Oeil (a peachy nude) on lips. Nails used one coat of gel polish in Muguet followed by a layer of Dior Glow.


According to Philips, the women in he show look “like a fragile flower but with historical and futuristic crosscurrents,” he said. “When she moves, she catches the light.”


Although I rarely feature celebrities, I’m going to make an exception for Charlize Theron near her seat in the front row agains the wall of orchids, looking very Dior. As you likely already know, Christian Dior was an avid gardener, so perhaps this modern take on the flower is meant to evoke his leadership of the line. I thought it was interesting that this dress had a slice-of-silver echoed in Philip’s eyeliner on its front.


Chanel’s haute couture show echoed a silver-themed eye. Although little information about the products used in the Fall Haute Couture show, the most striking aspect of Chanel’s models was the Sam McKnight wind-blown hair.


And, in case you haven’t seen, the lovely Kendall Jenner walked the Chanel runway this season.


I also need to include the fantastical eye looks from Armani Prive:


The craftsmanship on the Armani clothes is incredible:

en_backstage_du_d__fil___armani_priv___automne_hiver_2014_2015_722880552_north_883x.1 The geometry of this one is, in my view, spectacular:en_backstage_du_d__fil___armani_priv___automne_hiver_2014_2015_878047725_north_883x.1

I hope that you enjoyed this little sketchbook!

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