Sep 272011
 

This recent story about Chanel’s Peter Philips’ work backstage at Jil Sander emphasizes that a modern look incorporates nudes. Above, Philips used foundation on the lips to simulate a nude lip. Unlike Fall seasons past, I’m definitely feeling nudes during 2011. This includes nails, including Rococo Nail Apparel’s Nude Wardrobe over at The Beauty Look Book and RGB’s nail collection seen here at Planete Beaute.

Some Fall lipsticks also have a nude vibe.  Like many women, I cannot wear a completely nude lip without looking a bit lifeless. Instead, this Fall I’ve been rotating some nude roses that give some color to lips (but not much). One was previously reviewed here, Burberry Lip Mist in Nude Rose.

This is in Burberry’s Lip Mist formula, which is both sheer and moisturizing. On Liz:

Another one that I’m enjoying is Dior Rouge Dior in Pisanelle Pink ($32/#428), released with this Fall’s Blue Tie Collection:

When this was released, I went back to look at it several times trying to decide whether I needed this one.  I decided that I did, and I’v been wearing it very frequently.  It’s one of those lipsticks that you can keep in your purse constantly to refresh during the day.  It looks good with a wide range of other looks, and adds a glowing look that is very polished.  On Liz:

Dior’s formula is very moisturizing–this feels like a balm to me. Keep in mind, the formula is a bit soft. Several of the testers that I saw were broken. I’ve carried mine around in my purse, and been careful during application, which seems to have worked to preserve the bullet of this very soft formula.

Bobbi Brown’s Rich Lip Color in Soft Nude ($22/ #18) is a rosy brown nude:

On Liz:

Bobbi Brown’s Soft Nude is the deepest and most opaque of this group, easily covering my pigmented lips.  Bobbi Brown’s tended to look creamier than the others, which have a more luminous finish.  I’m having trouble locating this color for sale online–this may have been limited edition or is simply sold out.

Here is a comparison of the three:

I have to admit, it is nice to have a Fall season where deep reds are not required. I’m enjoying the ease and wearability of these colors. You can always smoke out the eyes, if you’d like emphasis. I’m declaring Fall 2011 the season of nude makeup.

Bobbi Brown Rich Color Lipstick in Soft Nude was sent to Cafe Makeup without charge for consideration and review.

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Sep 022011
 

Over the past several weeks, Bobbi Brown introduced a new line of High Shimmer Lip Gloss ($23/each).  I was so delighted over the shift to a doe foot applicator that I nearly forgot to check out the line.  Here, I’m looking at Pink Tulle.

Like several in the High Shimmer Lip Gloss line, Pink Tulle is formulated with a high-shine microglitters that catch the light but do not feel gritty.  The gloss is a high-gloss, and (consistent with Bobbi Brown’s other glosses) is on the higher end of the sticky scale.  As you know, sticky glosses tend to last longer.  Although I did not try all of the glosses in this line, please note that Pink Tulle has a very strong, pleasant mint scent.

 Pink Tulle is somewhat sheer.  Here, I swatched it next to the comparatively opaque Nars Angelika, the very sheer Chanel Glossimer in Blossom (reviewed here), Chanel Rouge Allure Extrait de Gloss in Imaginaire (reviewed here), and Chanel Glossimer in Pink Pulsion (reviewed here).

Pink Tulle is quite sheer on the lips as well.  Here, you can see most of the color in this picture is Liz’s natural lip color.  The microshimmer effect is noticeable but subtle:

Overall, I applaud Bobbi Brown for moving to the doe foot applicator.  Pink Tulle is an easy, highly wearable gloss that adds just a touch of sparkle, shine and glam.  It’s a perfect “purse color,” meaning you can keep it in your bag for touchups because it’s going with virtually anything you are going to wear.  Here’s a look at the rest of the colors in the High Shimmer Lip Gloss line (click to enlarge):

Disclosure: This product was sent by Bobbi Brown to Cafe Makeup for review without charge.

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Aug 282011
 

Bobbi Brown Rich Color Eye Shadow in Sand Dune ($24 /#1) from her Marrakesh Chic collection is a sheer shimmery warm oyster-toned highlighter.

Sand Dune is one of the few shimmery shades in Bobbi Brown’s limited edition Rich Color Eye Shadow series (there is a light pink and a deep violet that are also shimmery). Sand Dune seems a welcome edition to this otherwise deep, largely suede-textured line, for that all-important inner-color highlight or browbone touch to add dimension.

 

Here are some swatch comparisons with some other light-toned shimmery shades in my collection:  MAC Femme Fi (limited edition, but subject to frequent re-release), Nars Abyssinia, and Chanel Lotus.  Just for fun, I added some opaque shimmers so that you could compare the sheerness factor–here, Bobbi Brown Chrome Eyeshadow in Pewter and Guerlain Sable Blonde (limited edition, no longer available).

Another, same shades:

One last, same shades:

Like the other colors in Bobbi Brown’s Rich Color series, Sand Dune is a great basic, believable highlighter shade.  Once you tell the waxy pigment that you are serious about picking up the pigment (use a stiff-bristled brush), it gives plenty of pigment.  As appropriate for a highlighter, there is a sheerness and lightness to the texture that prevents the force-field, metallic foil that can look dated (or perhaps, just a bit Jersey-licious).

I really like Bobbi Brown’s Rich Color series, and Sand Dune is a good addition to any collection.  As with the other shadows, I’ll express a bit of confusion about the limited-edition status of the shadows–all are good basics that seem like staples that can be used for years.

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Aug 282011
 

Bobbi Brown Rich Color Eye Shadow in Rich Kashmir ($24 /#3) from her Marrakesh Chic collection is a deep matte neutral brown with a touch of grey.  Unlike Bobbi’s Rich Color Eye Shadow in Coffee Bean from this same series which leans red, Rich Kashmir is a brown that plays at the edges of grey and taupe.

Comparison swatches with Bobbi Brown Rich Color in Coffee Bean shows the Rich Kashmir is a softer, grayer tone than the deep, richer red-tone brown.  You can see that Rich Kashmir is not as gray as a taupe–both MAC Moth Brown and Chanel Taupe Grise are more gray.  Rich Kashmir is not as deep as MAC Magnetic Fields (limited edition, no longer available), or as purple as the deeper side of the NARS Habernera duo.

 Another in sunlight with flash:

I had to wonder why Bobbi Brown is releasing matte neutrals in a limited edition Fall collection.  Based on my experience with Rich Kashmir and Coffee Bean, both seem like great staples that are part of a permanent line.  I expect that the answer lies in the 758-page September 2011 Vogue, which seemed to feature page after page of matte eyeshadow looks.  Unlike Peter Phillips’ shimmery eye looks for Chanel for Fall 2011, Bobbi Brown’s trend for this season is all about rich basics that look deep and suede-like on the eye.

Like Coffee Bean, Rich Kashmir has a harder texture that works beautifully with a stiff-bristled brush.  As I detailed in the Coffee Bean review, this Rich Color Eye Shadow has a texture that packs plenty of pigment so long as you break through the long-wear texture by showing the pan that you mean business.  It applies beautifully (patting gets you more color, sweeping will get you less).  Rich Kashmir seems to blend with with other shades.  Highly recommended.

 On September 2, 2011, after this original review was posted, I received a Rich Kashmir eyeshadow from Bobbi Brown sent without charge for consideration and review.  I have not changed the original review since the time that it was first posted.

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Aug 252011
 

Bobbi Brown is introducing a series of shadows in a new formulation, Rich Color Eye Shadow.  I ordered a few to test drive them.  Based on what I’ve seen so far, these are a mix of textures (shimmer and matte).  These are said to be formulated for long wear using a type wax that imparts rich, deep color.  My first try was Bobbi Brown Rich Color Eye Shadow in Coffee Bean ($24), a rich deep matte brown.

The texture of this shadow was a little unusual.  I can tell that there is some type of wax in the mix–I pushed my brush fearlessly into pan with a stiff eyeshadow wash brush (to be precise, this Chanel Blending Brush).  My reward was a very rich wash of color.  My more tentative stabs with a MAC 217 were less satisfying, to be honest.  When you approach one of these pans, dig in.  You’ll need to so that you can break into that wax.

To be very clear, these pans do not lack pigment.  To the contrary, once my brush picked up the color, there was a gorgeous wash of deep brown that really set off my fair coloring and blue eyes.  Absolutely gorgeous.  It just seems like you are going to need a good stab to tell that wax you mean business.  I’m exaggerating, of course, but my point is don’t be shy.  This gives a gorgeous, deep rich wash of color if you rough up the texture a little.  Pat it on for an even more dramatic effect.

Coffee Bean is a deep toned matte brown with a very slight red-purple tint. Comparison swatches with Bobbi Brown Coffee Bean, Chanel Ombre Essentielle in Cinnamon and Taupe Grise, and NARS Mekong:

One more, in sun:

I have a few more from this series to test, but I wanted to report on Coffee Bean.  By the way, Coffee Bean blended with other shadows well.  Looking good so far.

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