Trend Watch: The Contoured Cheek

 Bronzers, Chanel, Highlighter, Hourglass, NARS  5 Responses »
Oct 102011
 

This Fall, I’ve begun to notice a heavily contoured cheek used on the runway and in magazines.  For example, look at this look from last week’s Paris runway show of Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2012:

I noticed another heavily contoured look in this feature from the October ’11 Vogue in this androgynous take on the trend:

I was tempted to try this look, because I love nude blushes, light bronzers and highlighters and have several in my stash.  However, I did not want to apply the product so heavily and dramatically because the heavy application that you see in these examples seem best suited for a runway or fashion studio.  Some ways that I played with the look include using a deeper foundation shade on the lower cheek, and a subtle highlighter on the upper cheek.  This is the most subtle version of the contoured cheek that I can create.

Another is to use a deep blush and highlighter combination, such as the Chanel Soho blush/ highlighter that was released last Fall (limited edition)

If you prefer a cream version of the colors in the Chanel Soho palette, Nars Multiples in Maui and Luxor is a good substitute (swatches below).  I bought the Nars multiples as mini’s in this Sweet Disposition set.
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A third way is a highlighter/combination, including this Hourglass Illume Creme-to-Powder Bronzer Duo in Bronze Light ($40), which is sold at Sephora.  On the top of the compact, there is a champagne gold sheer highlighter.  On the bottom, the compact holds a warm-toned cream bronzer that runs to a medium-toned depth.  The top mirror keeps the compact sleek when stored, but can be swiveled up so that the large mirror can be used.
This Hourglass duo can be worn with the two tones applied separately to create a defined, contoured cheek.
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Alternatively, I can wear the bronzer more traditionally with the highlighter all over the cheek and on the brow bone. The Hourglass Bronzer duo holds one of the deepest bronzers that I can get away with, and I have to apply it sheerly to get it to work.  If you have a medium warm skin tone, you can be more liberal with the use of this bronzer. Those with cooler skin tones may find this duo is too warm.
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I also own Soleil Tan de Chanel Bronzing Makeup Base ($48) (swatched below).  The Hourglass bronzer is a traditional creamy texture that dries down to a powder on the skin and can be beautifully sheered out.  Chanel’s cream bronzer feels drier in the tub, and feels as though it contains some silicon.  Chanel’s is lighter in tone than the Hourglass.  The Chanel tub is a rather enormous 1.0 ounce;  the Hourglass duo holds .39 ounces of product in total (both bronzer and highlighter).
Here is a comparison of Nars Multiples in Luxor and Maui, the two shades from the Hourglass Illume Bronze Light compact, and a combination that I created the Soleil Tan de Chanel Bronzing Makeup Base and Edward Bess All Over Seduction in Sunlight ($38) (reviewed here).
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 Have you played with a contoured cheek?  What are your thoughts?
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Burberry Light Glow Blush in Earthy

 Blush, Bobbi Brown, Bronzers, Burberry, Chanel, MAC, NARS  25 Responses »
Aug 032011
 

I rarely photograph used items for review on Cafe Makeup, but I was unable to resist using Burberry Beauty Light Glow Natural Blush in Earthy ($42) long enough to put it in front of my camera.  To be more precise, I couldn’t stop using Burberry Earthy after I learned to use it at a recent makeover.

When I first received Burberry Earthy, I tried using it as a traditional blush.  When I did that, I was very confused.  The color didn’t apply as a blush on my warm NC15/20 (Chanel Cameo/Ivoire) skin tone at all.  Although I’m a fan of nude blushes, Earthy left me a little cold at first.  However, an excellent Burberry makeover artist explained that Earthy is a perfect contour color of pale skin tone girls.

Of course, it is possible for one to use a bronzer to contour and I frequently do.  This tends to look best with warm toned makeup looks, or for those with a brighter or beachy style. Here’s a picture of Paris Hilton, looking gorgeous as always (love her!)   This is a classic bronzer contour look:

The bronzer (topped with a touch of highlighter and soft pink blush) has a warmth that echoes her bronzy arms. In contrast, look at the contouring on Burberry runway:

This has a completely different contour look compared to the lovely Paris’s beachy look.  Another, also from Burberry runway:

As you can see, the Burberry runway pictures have a contouring that is more subtle, less warm, and coordinates nicely with the rest of the look. Although slightly warm, Earthy gives the impression much more like the pictures on Burberry runway, not Paris Hilton. It’s a softer, less golden and looks more natural. I do not (and cannot) use Earthy as a traditional blush.  Rather, I place it at follows:

  • On top of forehead around the hairline
  • On the side, stay near the hairline
  • Bring the color in slightly over the brows and cheek hollow
  • Add a touch under the chin to define
You can add a touch of blush (Burberry Tangerine was used at my makeover), plus a touch of highlighter (Burberry Fresh Glow) on the upper cheek and around the eye area.  Here are some comparison swatches with Burberry Earthy and other nudes and bronzes in my collection:  Nars Laguna Bronzer, Mac Taupe blush, Shu Uemura M Amber 83, Bobbi Brown Sandstone, and Chanel Joues Contraste Tempting Beige blush.

 Another, indoor light:

Some thoughts:

  • Nars Laguna is a traditional bronzer (see, Paris Hilton)
  • MAC Taupe is quite dark for pale skin tones, and can look muddy
  • Shu Uemura M Amber 83 can be used as a blush (it has a peachy pink undertone) or a contour
  • Bobbi Brown Sandstone applies on cheeks with a definite pink glow and is more of a traditional nude blush
  • Chanel Joues Contraste Tempting Beige is slightly warm and pink-peach, and can be used as a traditional blush
  • Burberry Earthy is far more subtle than the others and works best on my pale skin as a contour
If you’ve purchased Burberry Earthy, how are you using it?  How do you like to contour?
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Guerlain Terracotta Mosaic Bronzer

 Bronzers, Guerlain  4 Responses »
Jun 032011
 

Some quick pictures of Guerlain’s Terracotta Mosaic Face and Body Bronzer ($69/ about .5 ounce).  This is a mix of several different brown and tan colors, topped with a gold overspray on portions of the surface.  Typical of many body bronzers, this is 4 1/2″ across, housed in a slim compact with the transparent lid.

As you can see, the surface shows the mix of different colored browns, each a different mosaic “tile” that creates the Guerlain “G” logo.

There is a soft, perfumed scent to the compact.  It is more lightweight than the heavier, mirrored .68 ounce (more product) body bronzer released by Guerlain a few years ago with the Orient collection (on the right):

I’m heading out of town again for several days (see, I told you that Liz and I are busy!).  In the meantime, take a look at swatches of this palette at Natural n Chic’s makeup blog at this link.

 

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Rouge Bunny Rouge Sea of Showers Illuminator

 Bronzers, Highlighter  5 Responses »
May 302011
 

Rouge Bunny Rouge (“RBR”) is a quirky little Russian-based brand that is making its away into the hearts of beauty lovers around the internet.  Although readily available in many parts of the world, Zuneta is one of the few sources for these magical luxury products in the U.S. (watch for free worldwide shipping offers, as their minimums are otherwise well over $100).

The line is based on excellent formulations from leading European and Japanese laboratories. The four founders, Swen Lorenz, Ginny Gulati, Raf De Schutter and Alexandra De Montfort launched in 2006  Alexandra De Montfort acts as the brands Creative Director.

My first foray into this line is the Rouge Bunny Rouge Sea of Illumination in Sea of Showers (approx. $70 /1 ounce), a liquid mix of gold and tan for a glowing bronze effect.  Regular Cafe Makeup readers will recall my obsession with summer highlighters, partially covered here. Having read unequivocal cries of love from others, I took the plunge, ordered from Zuneta and tapped my fingers until its arrival.

Sea of Showers is gorgeously packaged in a glass pump bottle covered with tiny fairy-like flowers, encased in a pretty cardboard sleeve.  The bottle is classic by itself, operates well to keep the liquid germ-free and is easy to use.

The product is wonderfully textured, which can be worn with some opacity for a bronze effect or more sheer to emphasize a glow.  I typically place it on my browbone, cheek, and a touch on my chin, forehead and down the center of my nose over foundation.  I preferred to apply this with my fingers, although some might prefer to use a foundation brush.

There is no hint of sparkle, rather the texture resembles a very glowy bronze that can be sheered out nicely to a light tan-gold.  Stunning.

The closest product that I own is Soliel Tan de Chanel in Sunkissed (swatches here and here).  I never thought I’d say this, but the Soliel Tan de Chanel is a comparative bargain at $48 (I wonder if exchange rates are playing havoc here).  The texture of Rouge Bunny Rouge Sea of Showers is thicker, giving a slightly more bronze and a touch more metallic effect.  In contrast, the Chanel is thinner in texture and more subtle.  Given my unreasoned passion for all bronzing highlighters, I’m going to say that I’ll use Sea of Showers for times when I want a more obviously bronze-gold effect.  In other words, the Rouge Bunny Rouge stands out more dramatically on my pale skin than the Chanel.

Here are comparisons with Soliel Tan de Chanel in Sunkissed, Nars liquid Laguna Illuminator (see here), and Becca liquid Shimmering Skin Perfecter in Topaz (see here).

Another swatch:

On the far left, you will see that the kind Zuneta staff sent a microscopic sample of Rouge Bunny Rouge Bronzing Glow Liquid, in a shade called “As If It Were Summer Still” (see here).  I included the swatch for completeness, and I must admit that it’s haunting me a little.  It’s an absolutely perfect light milky bronze with a touch of shimmer that’s perfect for my skin tone. Regrettably, it’s listed as selling for $100/ounce on Zuneta’s website, so that may have to wait a bit.

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Five Things I’m Loving Right Now

 Bronzers, Dior, Eyeshadow, Foundation, Skin care  13 Responses »
May 132011
 

As we are already part-way through May, here are this month’s Five Things I’m Loving Right Now….

1. Dior Rosy Tan Eyeshadow Palette (reviewed here).  I love the range of shades–the deep brown isn’t too deep for a pale skin-toned person like me.  It makes a great day-time dimensional eye.  As the weather heats up, I know that I’ll love Rosy Tan’s twin (Rosy Nude) just as much.  For now, Rosy Tan is fool-proof.

 

2.Dior Aurora Bronzer (reviewed here and here).  So easy, so natural.  So this season.

3. Elta MD Clear Sunscreen SPF 46 (see here)  Awesome sunblock.  All the right things–it blocks nearly all color, doesn’t break me out, leaves no white cast.  Looks good under makeup.

4.  Chanel Lift Lumiere foundation I have no idea why I fell back in love with this foundation, but it works so well this time of year.  Although I should be loving the newer Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua (and I do!), there’s something about the lightness and texture of Lift Lumiere that seems right.  As you know, Liz wears this constantly;  maybe we’re just in sync with it.

 

5. Louis Vuitton Hortensia Sunglasses New for Spring/Summer 2011.  I picked up these bad boys in Paris, and although I realize they aren’t makeup, I do wear them on my face. They look sort of outdated and heavy in this picture, but worn they are a fabulous. Pair them with a glossy bold summer lip and it’s party time.  Really, check them out.  You won’t be sorry.

 

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