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Edward Bess Makeover at Bergdorfs

 Blush, Edward Bess, Eyeliner, Eyeshadow, Foundation, Highlighter, Mascara  47 Responses »
Mar 222012
 

Liz and I were so fortunate to meet Edward Bess in person at Bergdorf’s last week. As we were walking through the magical beauty floor, we found him standing near a counter of his beautifully formulated makeup line. Even more incredibly, he offered to do our makeup. I took some pictures for you to enjoy–and we hope that you do!

First of all, Edward Bess is even more charming and knowledgable in person than we had imagined–and we are some of his biggest fans. A prodigy, his taste level and expertise is incredible. Also, his personality is so pleasant and easy-going–he had us laughing along with him throughout. If you could choose anyone to do your makeover, Edward Bess would be a most delightful (and talented) choice.

Edward began with Liz’s eyes–he explained that cleanups are so much easier if the color product somehow migrates.  We were so lucky to try his new Edward Bess Eye Primer.   This product, which comes in three different shades, is distributed via a brush pen to the lid. Above, the product is coming out of the tube before it is smoothed out (with fingers or the built-in brush). It creates a blank canvas on the lid, drying to an opaque matte finish. I noticed that both Liz’s and my eye makeup lasted beautifully until we removed it much later that evening. The finish is amazing. I cannot wait until this product is available in the next 2-3 weeks. I need it.

With a few exceptions, nearly all of the color products used on both Liz and I were from the Edward Bess Back to Basics Palette ($75). Although I realized that this was a very versatile travel palette, I was stunned to see how easily Bess could use this palette to create our “you but more glamorous” looks. With just a few of his brushes and his fingers, Edward used some of his collection’s favorite colors. You can see Sabrina’s review and swatches of this palette here at The Beauty Look Book.

The eyeshadows were used to create a very natural eye, using the neutral colors on the lid, and the darker shade just above the crease. Edward used his Edward Bess Luxury Eye Brush ($40) (pictured with the palette, above, which I couldn’t resist buying).

A little Edward Bess Defining Eye Liner ($29)….

 More work on the eye area:

 And bringing some color under the eyes:

Edward gave Liz incredibly long, defined lashes with his Edward Bess Lash Designer Volumizing Mascara ($30):

Edward mixed his Edward Bess Platinum Concealer ($38) with a touch of his moisturizing Edward Bess Black Sea Deep Hydration Cream ($90) to do Liz’s under eye area. He also used a mix of this moisturizer with his Edward Bess Sheer Satin Cream Compact Foundation ($60), which he dabbed on Liz with fingers. Although I don’t own this foundation yet, it did provide a very lightweight, moisturizing feel. The finish was lovely. I do own at least three of the Platinum Concealers, which I keep at home, work, and in my purse.  It has amazing coverage and the quality is excellent. I’m discontinuing the use of the Cle de Peau stick concealer in favor of the Edward Bess.

He then began to dab on the blush and highlighter from the Back to Basics Palette to add subtle color to Liz’s cheeks:

He used very soft lipstick and pencil on lips:

Edward then used the South of France Quad Royale ($45) applied with his Luxury Face Brush ($56) to add a glow to Liz’s complexion.  This quad gave Liz a very natural sheen–really, we couldn’t leave the counter without picking one up for her.

The Beauty Look Book’s review and swatches of the South of France Quad Royale are here. If you love a soft, subtle, beautiful glow, this is a must have.

I hope you enjoyed this little essay–we certainly felt very fortunate to have met with Edward Bess. What an enormous talent–I cannot wait to see what else he will be releasing in the coming months.

Nars Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 PA+++ Review

 Foundation, NARS  13 Responses »
Mar 022012
 

I’ve been wearing the just-released Nars Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 Sunscreen/ PA +++ ($42) for about one month. I picked up the product when I read the Nars brochure, which promised broad spectrum sun protection, increased hydration, giving skin a more radiant and luminous surface and “helping to reduce the appearance of discoloration and dark spots in just four weeks.”

Part of me wondered whether Nars Tinted Moisturizer was an ambitious effort to deliver skin care protection in an everyday foundation-type product. Last year, Le Metier de Beaute’s Peau Vierge promised skin care benefits in its tinted moisturizer, why not other companies? As many of you have noticed, the BB Creme trend promises skin care as well, and currently Dior, Estee Lauder, Boscia and others are introducing those products to the U.S. I chose to investigate Nars, in part because it seemed to offer something seriously different than the others. Nars Tinted Moisturizer improves skin through protection and hydration, relying on Octinoxate 7.4% and Titanium Dioxide 6.1% to keep skin protected from the sun.

Nars Tinted Moisturizer comes in nine shades. At my local Nordstrom, I was matched to Alaska (the 2nd lightest shade), which is a touch too yellow and slightly dark, although not noticeably so once I add bronzer and blush. Some Makeupalley users wear Alaska and they are NC 20/25. Note that I’m really pale now in this post-winter phase, although sometimes I lean NC 15/20, I’m definitely a solid NC15 now.

If I apply this with my fingers, I get medium coverage (with a brush, I can sheer it out). The texture is very lightweight and it feels a little like a gel. It’s weightless and lasts the entire day (14-16 hours). It gives a slightly glowy look that I absolutely love. It doesn’t emphasize any pores. No breakouts or clogging.

The most delightful part is that my skin has noticeably improved. Some darker old acne marks have noticeably lightened. Although the formula is hydrating, it doesn’t feel oily or heavy (the brochure says that the product is oil-free). I love the small size, which I can tuck into my bag without the weight or breakage of a glass product (will be loving this for travel!). It’s a generous 1.9 oz. size (most foundations have 1 ounce only).

Dear reader, I know that foundations are very much “your mileage may vary.” I’ve been absolutely loving this one for me. Unlike Chanel Perfection Lumiere, the Nars has more “life” and luminosity. It has a solid dose of sun protection, which I greatly appreciate living in sunny California. Unlike the vast majority of my foundations, I’ve seen improvement in the texture and even toned texture of my skin. Great, lightweight formula. Love.

The ingredient list for Alaska is:  Water, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Titanium Dioxide, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Glycerin, Nylon-12, Cyclomethicone, Peg-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Peg-10 Dimethicone, Aluminum Hydroxide, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate, Stearic Acid · Phenoxyethanol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Fragrance, Dimethicone/Vinyl, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trisodium, Edta, Aluminum Distearate, Talc, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Polysilicone-2, Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate, Tocopherol, Alteromonas Ferment Filtrate, Maris Sal (Sea Salt), Hydrogen Dimethicone, Bht, Algae (Algae Extract), Sodium Metabisulfite, Curcuma Longa [Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract], Potassium Sorbate, Geraniol, Limonene, Citral, Linalool [+/- (May Contain): Ci 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Ci 77491 (Iron Oxides), Ci 77492 (Iron Oxides), Ci 77499 (Iron Oxides)].   Note that Sephora.com has the ingredient list for all shades.

An Introduction to Koh Gen Do Foundations

 Foundation, Ken Gen Do  25 Responses »
Oct 072011
 

I’ve begun experimenting with foundations by Koh Gen Do based on their stellar reputation. Up until now, they’ve been carried online on Koh Gen Do at at Barney’s New York’s. Recently, they’ve been added to Sephora’s online store. I’m hoping that they’ll also reach Sephora brick & mortar stores although I honestly don’t know. Liz and I have been flirting with the counter testers at Barney’s location in San Francisco for a few months, so finally I took the plunge.

Since Chanel has now discontinued the Pro Lumiere line, Chanel’s only “glowy” foundation is Vitalumiere fluid (which feels heavy on my skin) and Tient Innocence Compact (which has too much coverage for my skin type). There are reports that Chanel will release new Vitalumiere compact products in Spring 2012, although I’m not certain how those products will be formulated. Right now, my glowiest foundation is Guerlain’s Parure Gold (reviewed here), which is a very elegant foundation with medium coverage. When I wear Parure Gold, I sometimes cut it with a good moisturizer to make it slightly more sheer.

As background, Koh Gen Do has been formulating high definition foundations designed for makeup artists for use in film. The science relies on the use of deep sea waters which include minerals and nutrients that are easily absorbed into the skin. These foundations are blended with a perfect ratio (or “golden ratio,” as the company says) of pigment, deep sea water and emolients/oil) to give lustrous, moisturized coverage. If you love a soft glow, you will want to take a look. Both have a lightweight feel.

I’ve been trying two–the first is Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation ($62/ 1.0 oz). This has been featured at Into the Gloss and The Beauty Look Book, and given favorable reviews on both. The Aqua comes in a glass pump bottle. This foundation feels lightweight and moisturizing on the skin. The color range is insanely small–only four colors. Four!! OC-1 is a bit light for my NC15/20 Chanel B20/Cameo/Ivoire skintone.

So far, my impression is that Koh Gen Do Aqua is a very, very sheer foundation in my opinion. It’s probably the sheerest foundation that I’ve tried–if my memory is correct, it’s sheerer than some tinted moisturizers that I’ve used (Tarte’s Smooth Operator, for example, seems more pigmented). If you are looking for a soft, moisturizing veil of color over relatively unmarred skin, this will work beautifully. If you have imperfections, a good concealer will be necessary.

Ingredient list (click to enlarge):

Koh Gen Do Moisture Foundation ($62/.071 oz/ Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture Foundation), comes in a red squeeze tube that holds about 1/3 less than most foundations. It’s extremely packable, and comes if a far greater range of colors:

The Barney’s sales associate matched me to 123, which is the last time in my entire life I’ll ever let a sales associate match me. It’s a bit dark. I would have wanted to get 023. I’m sorry to say that I do not have swatches, but I’m hoping to persuade Karlasugar to do a set.

Ken Gen Do Moisture Foundation is 60% water, which is twice that of most foundations and even more than the Ken Gen Do Aqua Foundation. Although the sales associate thought that Aqua foundation would be heavier coverage (and based on the math, she’d be right), I found that Ken Gen Do Moisture Foundation was noticeably higher coverage. In other words, in my opinion Ken Gen Do Moisture foundation is a medium coverage (similar to Chanel Perfection Lumiere, but the Ken Gen Do had a softer, glowy texture), and Ken Gen Do Aqua Foundation is light/sheer.

Ingredient list (click to enlarge):

When I wore Ken Gen Do Moisture Foundation to dinner last night, DH gave a favorable review. He far prefers this look to Chanel’s Perfection Lumiere on me. Honestly I loved the look of the Ken Gen Do Moisture myself. It gives a very soft and glowy look, very natural looking, and felt extremely lightweight. It absolutely looked like “my skin but better.” It uses two differently shaped powders to smooth over imperfections, give an airbrushed finish and feels both lightweight and nurturing.

Here are some swatches of Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua in B20, next to Chanel Perfection Lumiere in BR 32. This swatch also includes the too-dark Ken Gen Do Moisture Foundation in 123 and the sheer Ken Gen Do Aqua Foundation in OC-1.

Ken Gen Do also makes some lovely primers. I got some samples of the Yellow (meant to diffuse redness) and Pearl White. These feel very moisturizing without being too oily when applied:

Here are swatches of the sample packets in the late day sun–Koh Gen Do Makeup Color Base in Yellow on the left (light and heavy swatch), and Koh Gen Dow Makeup Color Base in Pearl White (heavy and light swatch) on the right:

 

I’ve purchased Makeup For Ever’s HD Foundation recently, and my plan is to do a comparison with the Ken Gen Do high definition foundations. I’ll continue playing with these and report back soon. In the meantime, let us know if you’ve tried these and your impressions? Also, if you see these at your local Sephora, would you kindly tell us that as well?

Dr.’s Remedy Enriched Instant Cover Review and Swatches

 Foundation, Skin care  1 Response »
Oct 032011
 

If you’ve ever been subject to the rigors of traveling, moving, sports or other bumps in your life, the occasional bruise and scrape can happen.  Other skin events can draw attention where we don’t necessarily want it to go.  Recently, I had the chance to try Dr.’s Remedy Enriched Instant Cover ($40/ 3.5 oz.) (sold here).  This is a super-opaque, non-transferrable cover-up that comes in three different colors–fair, medium and deep.  I tried it in light.

The product comes in a squeeze tube with a sponge top. It’s a built-in applicator, which looks like this when the tube is squeezed:

Basically, you smooth the sponge applicator over the area that you wish to cover.  It makes application quite simple.  The product dries down quickly.  It contains soothing ingredients, including Tea Tree Oil, vitamins and wheat protein to aid healing. Ingredient list (click to enlarge):

 Although the formula has these healing ingredients, it is not intended to be used for open wounds or on the face.  When I tried Dr.’s Remedy, I found that it dried down in about ten minutes.  It didn’t rub off on clothing after it’s set.  To test it, I drew four hearts on my arm with a black eyeliner and covered up most of them (I put dashes where the hearts have been covered up by Dr.’s Remedy).  As you can see, two coats of Dr.’s Remedy covered the hearts really well.

I suggest that you apply it over a moisturizer, as you can see the product does look rather dry once it sets.  Overall, I was happy with the coverage.  I believe that this shade–light– is bit too light for my fair skin tone (I didn’t get samples in the other colors, but it’s something to keep in mind).  I’m not sure whether I could make this work without mixing it with something darker, or obtaining it in a darker shade.  If you are looking for something with a good dry-down and opacity, Dr.’s Remedy is worth a look.

 This product was sent to Cafe Makeup without charge for consideration for review.

 

Chanel Perfection Lumiere: Initial Review, Thoughts and Musings

 Chanel, Foundation  20 Responses »
Oct 012011
 

I’ve been wearing Chanel Perfection Lumiere ($55) for the past few days, and wanted to post some initial thoughts:

  • Incredible shade range.  Swatches and the ingredient list are here, with some comparison swatches here.
  • I was matched to Beige Rose 32 (bottle pictured above), although I normally consider myself to be warm and very fair.  Typically, I wear Chanel foundations in Intensity 1.0 and go for the warmer shades in the line (Cameo, Ivoire).  I was surprised to find that Beige Rose 32 is a pretty good match.  It’s more neutral than cool on me.  I’ve also purchased some colors from the Beige (warmer) line, particularly to use after my summer color fades so I’m curious to see how those will work.
  • The foundation starts out very matte, and then settled into a matte-satin after about 30 minutes once it warmed to my skin.  I like the finish, it looks natural and like “real skin.”  In my opinion, it’s appropriate for both men and women (if you’ve got an HD TV, you may have noticed more men wearing foundation than in prior years, so I thought I’d put that one out there).
  • On my combination skin, it remains stable the rest of the day.  The “glow” that I usually get mid-afternoon on my forehead is far less apparent than usual.
  • Some sales associates have told me that this is not designed for dry or aging skin.   I think they mean that, unlike Pro Lumiere, this foundation does not give a “glowy” finish.  Having said that, it does well on the dryer parts of my face without emphasizing anything. You would need to add glow (by adding a glowy finishing powder or fluid) if that is the look that you are going for.
  • This is a medium coverage foundation that can be applied lightly with a brush for sheer coverage, or layered for heavier coverage.  It layers well without caking.
  • Perfection Lumiere’s coverage is higher than Vitalumiere Aqua and the discontinued Tient Innocence fluid, and roughly the same as Pro Lumiere, Lift Lumiere and Vitalumiere (fluid).  It is not as intense (or as glowy) as the Tient Innocence creme compact.
  • Highly transfer-resistant.  I love a good white blouse and use an iPhone close to my face–no problems so far.
  • No breakouts or clogging after three days of wear.
  • The feel is very light.  I cannot feel the foundation once applied.
  • There is a scent when first applied–it’s a touch of perfume and I can detect alcohol.  It fades after several minutes, but it is detectable when first applied.
A few more notes–right now, I’m have a good skin moment.  I’ve been slowly using most of the items recommended by Colbert MD at this post, including his skin care line (reviews to follow), and its working.  So far, I’ve worn Perfection Lumiere without a primer, and with Le Blanc de Chanel primer and had good results both times.  Typically, foundations do not oxidize on me (I do not consider the color shift that happens within the first 1/2 hour of the application of Perfection Lumiere to be oxidation, because it is absolutely stable on me the rest of the day). Overall, I like the finish, texture and coverage of Perfection Lumiere.  The coverage and finish are a good everyday finish for the office or whenever I want to look polished. For me, another Chanel foundation success.

More reviews:

  • Front Row Beauty is here.
  • RAEview is here (video).
  • Lacroix the Beauty Blog is here.
  • Lisa Eldridge Audrey Hepburn tutorial (using Chanel Perfection Lumiere) is here.
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