Foundation - Café Makeup

Diorskin Nude Tan BB Creme Review and Swatches

May 142013

Dior Nude Tan BB Cream07

For Summer 2013, Dior has released a new BB Creme, Diorskin Nude Tan BB Creme ($44/1.0 oz). This product is intended to enhance and prolong an existing tan, as well as to add hydration by adding jisten, mauve and hibiscus, as well as green, red and white tea extracts to offer the skin-illuminating effects. Despite being a summer product, this is offered as an SPF 15.

Dior Nude Tan BB Cream09

I find these types of products useful for a few reasons. First, sometimes my body sometimes picks up more sun than my face (where I use the strongest sunscreens). A deeper tinted moisturizer can really even out the difference. I have been using the Guerlain Terracotta Tinted Moisturizer to mix with my standard foundations during the summer months to deepen its tone to add just a touch of sunny color. Also, these products can add a sort of “bonne mine” effect (that is French for the concept of a healthy glow).

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The packaging is Dior-licious, it’s convenient, perfect for travel, and sanitary with the pump applicator. On application, I got a strong scent of alcohol, which is not my favorite ingredient.

Dior Nude Tan BB Cream08

I purchased this in Shade 001 (the lightest of 2) without trying it first, a decision I soon came to regret. This shifted to a too-dark color with a strong orange tint just as it dried down. Within a few minutes, this look very unnatural especially on my forehead (for reference, I’m about a MAC NC15/ Chanel Ivoire/Cameo). As with all makeup, your mileage may vary, but I was surprised because it happens so rarely for me.

I certainly didn’t expect a skin match. I wear sunscreen and hats so I’m pale. I’m familiar with the “darker for summer” genre of face products. In fact, I’ve used more than half of a bottle of Guerlain Terracotta Tinted Moisturizer, which is not a true match for my skin-tone either. Between the two, I’d definitely recommend Guerlain’s (this year’s version is here). Guerlain’s feels moisturizing and lovely. It actually improves my foundations when I add it in, making my skin look better (Dior’s did not have this same smoothing, moisturizing effect). Guerlain’s has that blurry, yet natural, thing that helps everyone’s skin looks smooth and pretty. Guerlain’s doesn’t have the alcohol scent (although it does have a perfume scent which fades with a few minutes).

Here are some comparison swatches. These swatches aren’t perfect, because the Guerlain looks warmer here. This doesn’t reflect the color shift that happened when the Diorskin Nude Tan dried down. When applied to my face, the Guerlain looks far more natural in skin tone (and I can always add a kick of foundation to soften the color if I like, because it plays well with others):

Dior Summer BB Creamb1

Here’s the ingredient list for the Diorskin Nude Tan BB Creme (click to enlarge):

You should note that this Diorskin Nude Tan BB Creme is not just a tinted version of the Diorskin Nude BB Creme—a quick comparison reveals that the ingredient lists are quite different.

In other news, I have a few more new summer BB Cremes to review over this week and into next, so stay tuned! In the meantime, with deep regret I’ve concluded that Diorskin Nude Tan is not a match made in heaven for me. I advise a sample before you buy, especially given my own individual experience with the product.

Available at Nordstrom (Guerlain’s Terracotta Tinted Moisturizer and Diorskin Nude Tan BB Creme).

This post contains affiliate links. For more information, see About Cafe Makeup.

Some Thoughts About Shiseido Urban Environment Tinted Sun Protector SPF 43

Foundation, Shiseido, Skin care 21 Responses »

May 082013

Shiseido Tinted Sun Protection06

As much as I love a new color palette or bronzer, at the beginning of every day I also think about protecting my skin. Lately I’ve been considering summer options for base makeup. I live in Northern California, and the climate can be dry and bright. I have combination skin that is warm and light (Chanel Ivoire/Cameo and around a MAC NC15). I decided to try Shiseido Urban Environment Tinted UV Protection SPF 43 ($30/ 1 oz.) (available in 3 shades, I’m using #2). This one is easy to miss, it’s a quiet product that is worth a look.

Shiseido Tinted Sun Protection07

This is a tinted sunscreen in a cosmetically elegant makeup base that feels lightweight and a touch moisturizing. On application, I do not detect any strong scent. The coverage is on the lightweight side of medium, but far closer to the medium category. It covers about as well as many foundations, slightly more than Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua (the Shiseido feels more moisturizing than Chanel). The Shiseido is very comfortable when applied.

Shiseido Tinted Sun Protection05

It’s notable that Shiseido is offering this level of sun protection in a cosmetically elegant makeup base for $30, when the prices of other lines are pushing $40-90. Shiseido’s Urban Environment Tinted UV Protector looks like a true foundation, particularly when compared to the Elta MD Physical Sunscreen which feels and looks much heavier and drier. Shiseido’s has a pretty, natural sheen. This Shiseido Tinted Sun Protector does have dimethicones listed in the ingredients, is advertised as “oil free,” and has not shown any signs of pore clogging or breakouts (your mileage may vary, of course).

Shiseido’s Tinted UV Protector takes a few minutes to dry down. I usually wait and do my eyes/hair in the meantime, because applying blush over a wet foundation can be a one-way ticket to patchy-town. If I’m in a real hurry, I grab my duo-fibre brush and apply a quick dusting of Nars Light Reflecting Powder (loose), which settles everything down. I really like the SPF 43 features of the product, although to be safe I use a layer of sunscreen underneath as the sun can be quite unforgiving where I live. According to Shiseido:

Contains SuperVeil-UV 360™ offering comprehensive protection of the skin’s surface and Profense CEL™ protects cells and DNA and helps inhibit enzyme activity, which are the causes of wrinkles and uneven skin tone.
Thiotaurine and Rose Apple Leaf Extract are effective in inhibiting oxidation caused by external environmental factors.
Water resistant (40 min) but easily removable with regular cleanser.

My experience with Shiseido sun care products in the past has been quite good–they seem to know their business quite well in the sun protection area. Active ingredients:

Inactive ingredients (click to enlarge):

Let’s talk about stability. Shiseido Tinted UV Protector seems like a really good option for skin that leans a bit dry. I have combination skin, and on days when the temperatures are in the moderate range (the 70′s), the foundation was very stable. I got a good 10 hours without any shifting or fading. Note that I’m wearing Nars Light Reflecting Powder, which acts as a setting powder and does help. On very warm days (into the ’90′s, or 30′s Celsius), I start to get a “glow” on my forehead about 3-4 hours application (this also happens with Diorsnow BB Cream). Still, Shiseido Tinted UV Protector gives me stable coverage despite the glow–it doesn’t shift or fade, but I do have to powder down. Even with my combination skin, I love it because the texture looks nice, natural, and has a pretty finish. This one’s going to get used up.

Here are some swatch comparisons with some other foundations that I have on hand–Nars Tinted Moisturizer in Alaska, Chanel Pro Lumiere in Cameo, and MAC Pro Longwear in NC15.

If you are looking for something similar with a broader shade range, has more coverage, and that stays matte longer in the day (and doesn’t feel quite as moisturizing), I’d go with Shiseido Sun Protection Liquid Foundation. (I’m planning to do a “foundations for hot, humid weather” overview soon–spoiler alert, this Shiseido foundation makes the cut). By comparison, the Shiseido Tinted UV Protector has slightly less coverage, feels more comfortable, and has more a more luminous, natural sheen. Here’s a picture so you can see it blending into the skin:

Shiseido Sun Protection Tinted2

Available at Nordstrom and at all other Shiseido counters. Like this Sun Protection Liquid Foundation, the Tinted UV Protector is found on the sun/skin care display, not with the standard Shiseido foundations/BB Cream.

This post contains affiliate links. For more information, see About Cafe Makeup

Diorskin Nude BB Cream: My Thoughts

Dior, Foundation 22 Responses »

Apr 242013

Dior BB Cream02

Over the past several weeks, Dior has released the Diorskin Nude BB Creme ($44/1 oz.). I bought the Diorskin Nude with some hesitancy, because I really love Diorsnow UV Shield BB Creme. I really like the Diorsnow BB Creme’s SPF 50 rating, the medium coverage, and the overall feel and look when applied. Parenthetically, the Diorsnow BB Creme has never left me with a single clogged pore. Nonetheless, in the interest of Dior science, I took the plunge to try the Diorskin Nude version.

Dior BB Cream07

One advantage to the new Diorskin BB Creme is that it is offered in four shades. Although some lines have only one colors, others have five–like Goldilocks, Dior must have decided that four shades are just right. You can see swatches of all colors on Karen’s site at the Makeup and Beauty Blog. After doing a swatch test at Nordstrom’s counter, I found that Diorskin #002 was a good match for my Chanel Claire/Ivoire, MAC NC15/20 skintone.

Dior BB Cream swatches1 copy

Here are some comparisons with Diorskin Nude BB Creme in #002, Diorsnow UV Shield BB Creme, Nars Tinted Moisturizer in Alaska, Chanel Perfection Lumiere #20 Beige, MAC Pro Longwear NC 15, and Make Up For Ever HD Foundation in #118. Of all of the swatches, above, Diorskin Nude BB Creme is the sheerest. However, Diorskin Nude BB Creme is genius when layered. I was able to add 2 and 3 layers over problematic areas without getting any texture or caking up.

Dior BB Cream10

Diorskin Nude BB Creme is rated at SPF 10, a significant difference from Diorsnow UV Shield’s SPF 50. As California moves into the sunniest season, this lower sunscreen rating makes Diorsnow UV Shield a better product in my calculation. Yes, I do use a separate sunscreen but it’s nice to have on those rushed days. Of course, Diorsnow’s very limited available shade range is a great downside.

Dior BB Cream11a

Diorskin Nude BB Creme has the easy travel portability, similar to the squeeze tube of the Nars Pure Radiance Tinted Moisturizer (reviewed here). Between those two, Nars Tinted Moisturizer has a larger available color range, stronger coverage, and lasts longer throughout the day. Also, Nars Tinted Moisturizer has SPF 30 plus skin care ingredients that help reduce dark spots and hyper pigmentation. Diorskin Nude does not advertise those qualities.

Dior BB Cream swatches2

I noticed that Diorskin Nude BB Creme has a long dry-down period. This means that the product seemed to stay moist on my skin for a good 20 minutes before I felt that it had settled down. I don’t like to apply blush over wet foundation, because it can go patchy. I usually resolved this by adding Nars Light Reflecting Loose Powder on top, so that I could proceed to add powder blush or bronzer faster.

Overall, Diorskin Nude BB Creme gives a nice, natural, sheer, glowy coverage. It feels much more like a light tinted moisturizer than a BB creme, nonetheless the 4-shade range is an advantage.

My personal take is that the higher-SPF coverage products in my drawer (Nars Tinted Moisturizer and Diorsnow UV Shield BB Creme) are better suited to my own needs. However, I’ve come to recognize that foundations and base products are very much “your mileage may vary” type products. Dior’s offering fills a nice niche for those looking for a simple, comfortable, moisturizing, and sheer product.

Ingredient and use listing (click to enlarge):

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Invisible Zinc UV Silk Shield Foundation Review

Foundation, Skin care 9 Responses »

Feb 192013

Invisible Zinc Foundation01

One of the best things that anyone can do to prevent aging is to wear sun protection. Invisible Zinc is a company that specializes in broad-spectrum physical sun protection using ingredients formulated to look invisible to the eye. According to the company, this formulation “uses Zinc Oxide which although invisible to the naked eye still provides outstanding broad spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays.” An Australian company, these products are are rated at SPF 30+, the highest rating available to products in that country. This is available at Cult Beauty (use free ship code MAKEUP25 to standard shipping on all orders over £25 except for Escentric Molecules).

Invisible Zinc Foundation04

Living in California, and sometimes traveling to sunny, humid climates, I’m quite interested in sunscreen-intensive makeup products. I prefer physical sun protection, as more stable and less irritating solution compared to chemical sunscreens (although I’ll take a product with a mix of physical and chemical.

Invisible Zinc Foundation08

In the past, I’ve used Elta MD Physical SPF 41 as a tinted physical sunscreen that can be worn instead of foundation as well as Shiseido Sun Protection SPF 42 PA+++ Liquid Foundation. Invisible Zinc is sold in a stick form in three shades: light, medium and tan (I tested the lightest shade).

Invisible Zinc Foundation05

Invisible Zinc is a creamy, medium-to-full coverage foundation that feels pleasant on the skin. Some of my efforts to try a high-SPF foundations have not been successful–as one example, I washed off Smashbox BB Cream SPF 35 before an hour because of the heavy sunscreen scent and heavy feeling on my skin. By comparison, Invisible Zinc UV Silk Shield gives serious coverage but feels light. The scent is very subtle (you have to get close the tube to pick any scent up) and fades very quickly. It feels very pleasant, and allows my skin to breathe.

Keeping in mind that this is a functional foundation, I planned to use this for trips to the pool, beach, or outdoors for long walks. For that format, nothing beats a stick format (no shaking required!). In the convenience department, Invisible Zinc wins out over Shiseido’s liquid. I found it held up well for a good 7-8 hours before I started to feel a need to touch up on my combination skin. It’s pretty easy to pull a stick foundation out and blend in some coverage (adding my Nars 413 Blkr Street Multiple completes the look). My testing days (which were mostly in-office days) led me to conclude that Invisible Zinc UV Silk Shield gave me a pretty finish that was far better than the rougher-textured Elta MD Physical SPF 41.

The ingredient list for the Invisible Zinc UV Silk Shield is above (click to enlarge). For a workhorse sunscreen, I was very impressed by Invisible Zinc. I’d love to test it the next time that I go to a very humid climate, but I did find that the foundation held up beautifully in the more temperate, sunny Northern California testing ground. With the addition of some Guerlain finishing powder, I found that Invisible Zinc gave me a great look that I’d be pleased to wear any day of the week. As an aside, the three finishing powders that I tried (on three different days) were the Geurlain Illuminating and Mattifying, Guerlain Meteorites, and the Guerlain Voyage Meteorites.

Here are a few quick swipes to show how the Invisible Zinc UV Silk Shield in Light compares to Chanel Lift Lumiere in Ivoire and MAC Pro Longwear in NC15. To my eye, it’s close to the MAC NC15 shade:

Invisible Zinc Foundation10

Bottom line: For anyone interested in a great, stable foundation this is well worth it. This foundation is available in the US from Cult Beauty, which also sells several additional products from the line. (use free ship code MAKEUP25 to standard shipping on all orders over £25 except for Escentric Molecules).

Invisible Zinc was sent to Cafe Makeup by Cult Beauty without charge for consideration for review. This post contains affiliate links (for more information, see About Cafe Makeup)

Omorovicza Complexion Perfector BB SPF 20 Review

Foundation, Omorovicza 26 Responses »

Jan 102013

Omorovicza BB Cream5

I’ve been testing Omorovicza Complexion Perfector BB ($125/ 1.7 fl. oz.), as one of my foundations over the past few weeks. As you likely know by now, the better BB Creams are “foundations with benefits,” including sun protection and other skincare ingredients. This product made Cafe Makeup’s Top 10 Products of 2012–I really love it.

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As a skincare specialist, Omorovicza has added an effective moisturizer and vitamin C to release moisturizer gradually throughout the day, as well as to encourage collagen protection and reduce free radicals. My skin feels calmer, if that makes sense. It’s very gentle. It is an ideal winter foundation, because it has the effect of improving the quality of my skin–my face actually looks better after I take it off at the end of the day than it did before I applied it in the morning. On that basis alone, I’ve got to keep a bottle of this in my beauty drawer at all times. To be honest, I’d rather use Omorovicza Complexion Perfecter than some of the standard foundations, because of the noticeable skin care results.

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The coverage is light-to-medium, and reasonably buildable (you can use it as a concealer on cheeks and forehead by building coverage there). The feeling is very moisturizing but lightweight. It gives my skin a slight sheen in strong sun sunlight. Testing in my car rearview mirror, I did not see an detectable sparkles but simply a soft sheen-glow. I don’t like using a powder over it, because the glow is very flattering and gives my face a nice dimensionality. I look well rested (even when I’m not) and a bit younger. Applied, it looks more like a glowy cream foundation than a liquid.

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The product comes in one shade, as far as I can tell, that is well suited for light skin tones with a neutral color base (it leans neither pink nor yellow to my eye). For more swatches, see Mostly Sunny’s review here. The texture is creamy and airy–I find it spreads very well with fingers (that’s my recommendation, as many BB creams are the denser side of the texture spectrum). This gives me luminous coverage without looking (or feeling) in any way like a mask. Like the Diorsnow BB Cream, Omorovicza Complexion Perfecter doesn’t emphasize pores (note that the Dior gives a more matte appearance by comparison).

Omorovicza BB Cream3

I like the large bottle size–it contains 1.7 ounces compared to the 1 ounce size of most foundations. The bottle is a luxe, heavy, frosted glass topped by a plastic pump which keeps the product sanitary. The pump is controllable–it’s smooth and allows me to pump out just a tiny bit if I need to (no splurge out!). This product does not contain any silicones and relies on physical sunscreen ingredients Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. Ingredient list (click to enlarge):

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Omorovicza Complexion Perfecter is formulated for those looking for a best-in-class, all-in-one solution. The coverage is sheer to medium is intended for those with fairly good skin, although I have used this with heavier hand in problem areas, or perhaps supplemented with a touch of Armani Maestro Concealer underneath. It gives me an absolutely gorgeous palette, which holds onto color well (probably due to its moisturizing properties). The biggest selling point for me, and the reason that I’ll replace this bottle, is the skin care ingredients and the lightweight feel. Some BB creams claim skin care benefits, this one delivers. Immediately. Also, many BB creams have a suffocating effect on my skin. Although the texturee of Omorovicza is on the creamy size, for a BB cream it’s quite lightweight. Bottom line–it’s a top shelf BB cream, the best I’ve tried.

Omorovicza BB Cream1

Omorovicza Complexion Perfector BB is available from Omorovica’s website, Sephora.com, Neiman Marcus, and Bergdorf Goodman.

Omorovicza sent the Complexion Perfector BB Cream to Cafe Makeup without charge for consideration for review. This post contains an affiliate link (for more information, please see “About Cafe Makeup” at the top of the page).

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