Skin care - Café Makeup

Some Thoughts About Shiseido Urban Environment Tinted Sun Protector SPF 43

Foundation, Shiseido, Skin care 21 Responses »

May 082013

Shiseido Tinted Sun Protection06

As much as I love a new color palette or bronzer, at the beginning of every day I also think about protecting my skin. Lately I’ve been considering summer options for base makeup. I live in Northern California, and the climate can be dry and bright. I have combination skin that is warm and light (Chanel Ivoire/Cameo and around a MAC NC15). I decided to try Shiseido Urban Environment Tinted UV Protection SPF 43 ($30/ 1 oz.) (available in 3 shades, I’m using #2). This one is easy to miss, it’s a quiet product that is worth a look.

Shiseido Tinted Sun Protection07

This is a tinted sunscreen in a cosmetically elegant makeup base that feels lightweight and a touch moisturizing. On application, I do not detect any strong scent. The coverage is on the lightweight side of medium, but far closer to the medium category. It covers about as well as many foundations, slightly more than Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua (the Shiseido feels more moisturizing than Chanel). The Shiseido is very comfortable when applied.

Shiseido Tinted Sun Protection05

It’s notable that Shiseido is offering this level of sun protection in a cosmetically elegant makeup base for $30, when the prices of other lines are pushing $40-90. Shiseido’s Urban Environment Tinted UV Protector looks like a true foundation, particularly when compared to the Elta MD Physical Sunscreen which feels and looks much heavier and drier. Shiseido’s has a pretty, natural sheen. This Shiseido Tinted Sun Protector does have dimethicones listed in the ingredients, is advertised as “oil free,” and has not shown any signs of pore clogging or breakouts (your mileage may vary, of course).

Shiseido’s Tinted UV Protector takes a few minutes to dry down. I usually wait and do my eyes/hair in the meantime, because applying blush over a wet foundation can be a one-way ticket to patchy-town. If I’m in a real hurry, I grab my duo-fibre brush and apply a quick dusting of Nars Light Reflecting Powder (loose), which settles everything down. I really like the SPF 43 features of the product, although to be safe I use a layer of sunscreen underneath as the sun can be quite unforgiving where I live. According to Shiseido:

Contains SuperVeil-UV 360™ offering comprehensive protection of the skin’s surface and Profense CEL™ protects cells and DNA and helps inhibit enzyme activity, which are the causes of wrinkles and uneven skin tone.
Thiotaurine and Rose Apple Leaf Extract are effective in inhibiting oxidation caused by external environmental factors.
Water resistant (40 min) but easily removable with regular cleanser.

My experience with Shiseido sun care products in the past has been quite good–they seem to know their business quite well in the sun protection area. Active ingredients:

Inactive ingredients (click to enlarge):

Let’s talk about stability. Shiseido Tinted UV Protector seems like a really good option for skin that leans a bit dry. I have combination skin, and on days when the temperatures are in the moderate range (the 70′s), the foundation was very stable. I got a good 10 hours without any shifting or fading. Note that I’m wearing Nars Light Reflecting Powder, which acts as a setting powder and does help. On very warm days (into the ’90′s, or 30′s Celsius), I start to get a “glow” on my forehead about 3-4 hours application (this also happens with Diorsnow BB Cream). Still, Shiseido Tinted UV Protector gives me stable coverage despite the glow–it doesn’t shift or fade, but I do have to powder down. Even with my combination skin, I love it because the texture looks nice, natural, and has a pretty finish. This one’s going to get used up.

Here are some swatch comparisons with some other foundations that I have on hand–Nars Tinted Moisturizer in Alaska, Chanel Pro Lumiere in Cameo, and MAC Pro Longwear in NC15.

If you are looking for something similar with a broader shade range, has more coverage, and that stays matte longer in the day (and doesn’t feel quite as moisturizing), I’d go with Shiseido Sun Protection Liquid Foundation. (I’m planning to do a “foundations for hot, humid weather” overview soon–spoiler alert, this Shiseido foundation makes the cut). By comparison, the Shiseido Tinted UV Protector has slightly less coverage, feels more comfortable, and has more a more luminous, natural sheen. Here’s a picture so you can see it blending into the skin:

Shiseido Sun Protection Tinted2

Available at Nordstrom and at all other Shiseido counters. Like this Sun Protection Liquid Foundation, the Tinted UV Protector is found on the sun/skin care display, not with the standard Shiseido foundations/BB Cream.

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Perricone MD Acyl-Glutathione Deep Crease Serum Review

Perricone MD, Skin care 5 Responses »

Apr 212013

Perricone MD Acyl Serum08

One new release in the skincare world is Perricone MD’s Acyl-Glutathione Deep Crease Serum ($155/ 1 oz.). This is a multi-tasking anti-aging treatment. One of its best features if the ability to soften fine lines

Perricone MD Acyl Serum14

This is a gently scented spot treatment that is to be applied to expression lines, lines, and creases. This is recommended for the “11″ that sometimes appear between the eyebrows, across the forehead, in the contours of the mouth (marionette lines), and anywhere else that lines are starting to form. Essentially, the product includes a derivative of Acyl-Glutathione which is intended to replace ingredients in the skin that tend to dissipate with age. For those versed in chemistry, here is one of the Perricone patent applications that describes the technology and the effects.

Perricone MD Acyl Serum13

The product is intended to gives an immediate smoothing effect to fine lines and lessen creases. Once again, Perricone MD has delivered. I found that the product was effective even on the first application. I’d really like to avoid using needles as long as possible, thank you very much. This serum works to soften expression lines and creases caused by facial movements and age. Unlike Botox, this product is not intended to be invasive–you still have full muscle control of course.

Perricone MD Acyl Serum04

The first time that I used the product, I found how quickly and completely the Perricone MD’s Acyl-Glutathione Deep Crease Serum does work. The results were truly visible. I applied this serum on some of the fine lines that traverse my forehead, and after about ten minutes they had smoothed to nothing. One area that looks like it’s on its way to a crease was far smoother and less deep. It also took care of some “11′s” that I’d developed from squinting at my computer all day. Excellent.

I’ve never had a moisturizer deliver results even close to Perricone MD’s Acyl-Glutathione Deep Crease Serum. When I used the product twice a day as suggested, the results continue to work. Ingredients (click to enlarge):

Users should keep in mind this serum is not a moisturizer, and that it can be layered with outer Perricone MD products. For example, I’ll layer this with my favorite Perricone eye treatments, including the Perricone MD Acyl-Glutathione Eye Lid Serum together with Perricone MD Vitamin C Ester and a moisturizer on my face.

Perricone MD Acyl Serum09

Overall: Great product that truly delivered for me. Bravo Perricone!

Through Friday April 26th, Perricone MD is is running a 20% off promotion with code SPRING20.

Available at Sephora.com, Perricone MD’s website and other retailers that carry the line.

Perricone MD sent Cafe Makeup this product for consideration for review. This review includes an affiliate link (for more information, see About Cafe Makeup).

Guerlain Sun Scrub Review

Bronzers, Guerlain, Skin care 8 Responses »

Mar 302013

Guerlain Sun Scrub1

Guerlain Sun Scrub ($65/5.1 oz.) has just been released for Summer 2013. This cleanser is unusual, with a niche appeal, yet fits a market need so well that it’s worth a look. This scrub has very subtle self-tanning properties that will appeal to those who frequently exfoliate. This will be a bit of a surprise to some, as the descriptive material does not mention this quality. I learned about the self-tanning aspect through my discussion with the extremely helpful Guerlain Las Vegas Boutique. We tried it, and it does work on us.

Guerlain Sun Scrub3

First, Guerlain Sun Scrub is an all-over body scrub. The tube is big, with a relatively generous 5.1 ounce. It has a lush, summer-in-St. Tropez scent that gives me a sort of relaxing “I’m on a beach” effect. The moisturizing gel has microbeads in the formula to give you a softening, moisturizing and exfoliating effect. According to Guerlain, the primary purpose of this product is to prepare the skin for tanning. I’ve used this all over, including on the face, without any breakouts or concerns and it’s quite a luxurious way to start your day.

Guerlain Sun Scrub

There are a group of women and men who exfoliate frequently, including those who use retin-based products or overnight exfoliators, masks, shower scrubs, Perricone MD Blue Plasma and/or brushes and textured cloths. Gentle, frequent exfoliation is a wonderful way to get glowing skin, but makes a self-tanner temporary. I haven’t wanted to spend time waiting for self-tanner to set and dry, only to start over the next day.

Guerlain, apparently reading our minds, has added a gentle, self-tanning property to this scrub that gives just a very subtle tan effect. So as you wash, you tan. If I were to estimate the effect on me, I would say it’s about 1/8 to 1/4 step between foundation shades. It’s a nice effect on winter-white skin. Of course, it’s Guerlain so it’s a flattering non-orange color. The effect is cumulative–if you wash twice in a row, the effect is stronger.

I realize that the price point and the niche appeal of this product will not have everyone rushing to the counters. Yet I found the idea ingenious, so I thought this was a review worth publishing for those looking for just a boost of color as we transition from winter to spring.

Guerlain Sun Scrub is available at Nordstrom.com and other Guerlain counters. I don’t yet see this on Sephora.

This post contains affiliate links. For more information, see About Cafe Makeup.

Tammy Fender Epi-Peel Review

Skin care 1 Response »

Mar 072013

tammy fender epi peel1

Tammy Fender Epi-Peel Formula E-517 (available for 60 euros/ 1.9 oz. at Cult Beauty) is a high end luxury face mask based in natural ingredients. The Moroccan Rosemary, Kaolin Clay and spearmint smell delicious, and operate very successfully to pull impurities out of pores and leave skin feeling soft and fresh. Unlike some peels, the texture is more of a paste.

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The scent is amazing–the combination gives one a gentle sense of the aromatherapy spa experience. As you might suspect, the Tammy Fender line is Goop-approved as part of the Natural and Organic Skincare write-up.

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One applies Tammy Fender Epi-Peel Formula No. E-517 as a scrub. The paste is not as rough as some I’ve tried in the past, it’s actually quite smooth. Yet by rubbing the product into the skin, you can get a very, very gentle exfoliating effect. I found that the product really excelled as a pore-cleanser, cleaning out impurities. Epi-Peel includes Hibiscus Extract to tone and detoxify, as well as Grape Seed Oil, which hydrates so that your skin dos not feel stripped after use.

Ingredient list (click to enlarge). As you can see, the product is rich is natural ingredients that include rose, green tea, and lovely oils:

Some peels seemed designed to knock a layer or two off of skin, where the skin is visibly brightened after use. These seem to mimic the chemical peel effect used in spas. Some are looking for this experience, others find these too harsh. A second type of peel is more subtle for the exfoliating effect, and is intended to leave the skin cleansed, gently rejuvenated and hydrated, and refreshed with cleared pores. Tammy Fender Epi-Peel Formula No. E-517 fits into the second category, taking off a touch of dead skin and placing the real focus on conditioning, clearing, and hydrating. It’s a lovely experience in that it manages to do so with gentle, natural ingredients that smell delicious.

Available at Cult Beauty. There is free ship with the code MAKEUP25 for standard shipping on orders over £25 (except for the brand Escentric Molecules).

Cult Beauty sent Cafe Makeup this product without charge for consideration for review.

Perricone MD Acyl-Glutathione Eye Lid Serum

Perricone MD, Skin care 11 Responses »

Mar 032013

Perricone Eye Cocktail abc1a

Perricone MD’s Acly-Glutathione Eye Lid Serum ($115/ 0.5 oz.) is designed to tighten and firm the eye area, to brighten dark circles and redness, smooth creases, and to act as a makeup primer. This is sold at Nordstrom, Sephora, Perricone MD and other retailers.

Perricone Eye Cocktail abc4

I’ve been using Acyl-Glutathione for the past several weeks and really like it. It gives me an instant lift, both above the eye and a flattening/lifting effect on the undereye area. The first few times I used it, I could literally feel my eye area tightening.

Perricone Eye Cocktail1

I found that Perricone MD’s Aycl-Glutathione Eye Lid Serum did give me a visible lift that I could actually feel. The effect seems to last all day, and it is cumulative. So, using the serum day-after-day gives me the best effect. Since researching this product, I’ve learned that many of Perricone MD products can be layered for a skin care cocktail. Taking this cue, I’ve used is the Perricone MD Acyl-Glutathione combed with Perricone MD Advanced Eye Therapy ($98). The combination seems to knock several years off in just a few minutes. It’s subtle, but definitely noticeable. It hasn’t completely eliminated every single fine line. In the short term, this combination certainly softens, flattens the under eye area, eliminates some lines, and lifts the entire eye area. Note that the combination is designed for long-term effect, so I’ll be interested to see whether the results get even better.

Here is the ingredient list (click to enlarge):

I think that Perricone MD has delved into the science of anti-aging. I’m working my way through some of Dr. Perricone’s books, and his knowledge of youthfulness at the cellular level is impressive and credible. The way that he has modified the raw ingredients to ensure that they are of maximum effect when applied on the skin is one of the reasons that I think this is an effective anti-aging skincare line. For its part, Perricone MD Acyl-Glutathione Eye Lid Serum works well for both under the eye, as well as on the lid, to help keep the eye area looking fresh.

Perricone MD is sold at Nordstrom, Sephora, Perricone MD and other retailers.

Perricone MD sent Cafe Makeup Acyl-Glutathione without charge for consideration for review. I purchased the Perricone MD Advanced Eye Therapy at Sephora.com. This post contains affiliate links (for more information, see About Cafe Makeup)

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