On Tuesday, May 15, 2012, Chanel held its Cruise 2012/13 show at the gardens at Versailles. Tents were added to the already manicured, rich setting:

The clothing played with the Marie Antoinette theme, the last queen to occupy this opulent palace:

Fitting for the cruise season, the fabrics were much more casual that the brocades worn in Marie Antoinette’s day. The looks were dramatically modernized, yet still echoed the grander era of the palace’s former days:

Some looks that turn Marie Antoinette’s era into modern, lightly worn lace and fabric:

A bathing suit and coverup:

I love this collar detail:

This skirt appears to have a gold train on the back, very rich. Note the shoes:

Another look, this with a plunging neckline fitted jacket and gorgeous bag:

As long as I’ve been following Chanel, they seem to consistently do denim in this very polished fabric (not like the long-wearing American denim, or even the more textured denims from Japan). Here, in capris:

For backstage, I’ve obtained this information from British Vogue:  After preparing skin with Chanel’s Hydra Beauty Serum, Philips created a mostly matte complexion –  contoured with the Mouche de Beaute Highlighting Powder from the new collection and bold Joues Contraste Powder Blush in Rose Pétale. Filled-in brows were paired with dramatic pink eyes created using a new Ombre Essentielle Soft Touch Eyeshadow in Rose Favorite, whilst lips were kept simple with a little Rouge Coco Shine Hydrating Sheer Lipshine in Evasion.

The models wore heavy, arched brows. There was no new nail color this time around, all reports state that Chanel Le Vernis in Tendresse (currently available) was used. Philips also applied little “CC” beauty marks on the models.

These beauty marks are made from velvet. There are conflicting reports over whether they will be separately available for sale to the general public. My guess (and the more recent report) is “no.”

The complete list of makeup used:

• The Complexion VITALUMIERE Moisture-Rich Radiance Fluid Makeup SPF 15
• ECLAT LUMIERE Highlighting Face Pen
• CORRECTEUR PERFECTION Long Lasting Concealer
• POUDRE UNIVERSELLE LIBRE Natural Finish Loose Powder
• EXCLUSIVE CREATION MOUCHE DE BEAUTE – “Versailles de CHANEL” Collection (available December 2012)
• The Eyes LIMITED EDITION OMBRE ESSENTIELLE in Rose Favorite – “Versailles de CHANEL” Collection (available at specific point of sales in December 2012)
• LE CRAYON KHOL Intense Eye Pencil in Clair
• CRAYON SOURCILS Sculpting Eyebrow Pencil
• RECOURBE CILS DE CHANEL Precision Eyelash Curler
• The Cheeks JOUES CONTRASTE Powder Blush in Rose Pétale
• Little black velvet CHANEL logo specially created for the show (will not be sold)
• The Lips ROUGE COCO SHINE Hydrating Sheer Lipshine in Evasion
• The Nails LE VERNIS Nail Colour in Tendresse

The classic black bow made a re-appearance in this model’s hair:

It’s very hard to get a sense of the movement of these clothes from the still images. I’m including this little interview of Karl Lagerfeld about the show, so that you can see how lightly these are constructed (perfect for the cruise season).

Well, beauty lovers, what did we think? Did we love? Or did we love it not?

Le Metier de Beaute’s On the Coast Palette ($95) was a “don’t blink or you’ll miss it” release on Saks.com about two weeks ago. Because so many more wanted to purchase it, they company has promised to replenish the stock of the palette. Here is the former onsite link, although I don’t know for certain whether Saks will use the same page when the re-stocking occurs.

I’ve been reaching for this palette more days than not since it arrived. It’s extraordinarily easy to use. Typically, I use the lightest color as a lid wash (up to the crease), then choose either the second or third level to put into the cease. If I have a few more seconds, I’ll add the blue as a liner. Done. Polished. Shimmery. Pretty. Although you could easily layer these shades, I think they work quite well on their own, blended together.

The first layer is a shimmery beach sand color, a cool-toned beige that is quite close to my natural skin color:

The second layer is a shimmery taupe:

The third is a shimmery rich bronze:

The fourth layer is a medium shimmery blue:

First set of swatches:

Additional swatches:

Final set, very similar but just because:

Overall, this is a highly usable, high quality neutral palette. As you may recall, this palette was originally produced to commemorate the line’s addition to Saks.com, and I believe it serves that purpose well.  The colors are true crowd-pleasers, versatile, and will look good on a variety of skin-tones.

I almost didn’t post this review, because I know that some are unhappy that the palette was produced in a boutique quantity for national release. I have found the palette extremely useful, so I thought I’d go ahead (actually, I’m sort of in love with it). It’s a great everyday palette, true to its coastal theme (a vibrant purple-blue instead of the blue would have added an edge, but I’m not complaining. The blue is a gorgeous blue). Indeed, the colors are so friendly that some might check their Le Metier stash to see whether they might own some of these colors already. Having said that, I’m happy to pack my On the Coast with me on future trips. The versatility of this palette makes it well worth the tiny amount of space it’s going to occupy. Well done, Le Metier!!

]]> http://cafemakeup.com/2012/05/16/le-metier-de-beaute-on-the-coast-palette-swatch/feed/ 3 http://cafemakeup.com/2012/05/15/hourglass-no-28-primer-serum-review/ http://cafemakeup.com/2012/05/15/hourglass-no-28-primer-serum-review/#comments Tue, 15 May 2012 18:50:43 +0000 Amy http://cafemakeup.com/?p=15594 [...]]]>

Hourglass Nº 28 Primer Serum ($65) is a best-in-class primer for dry skin. According to Hourglass, the “28″ in the name refers to the key ingredients in the primer, which includes 14 essential oils, 10 lipid-rich plant oils, and 4 vitamins. I’m no stranger to using rich and essential oils on my skin, having used Rodin’s legendary Olio Lusso for the past year whenever my skin feels dry and in need of nourishment. I’ve finally learned that even my combo-oily skin can benefit from the caring properties that well-chosen oils can bring.

Unlike Olio Lusso, Hourglass Nº 28 Primer Serum is a true primer intended to act as a hydrating base for foundation. In my opinion, the ideal user for this product has dry (or combo-to-dry) skin, and is concerned about anti-aging because the treatment properties are an important part of this treatment. The scent is light and pleasant, to my mind it seems like a slight floral with a touch of sandalwood. I find the scent far more pleasant and unobtrusive compared to Olio Lusso. I didn’t notice the scent after about 1/2 hour after application (and that’s being generous).

The product applies as a sheer liquid. With this product, you do not need very much to get a velvety base–I used at most three little droplets. It absorbs quickly. My liquid foundation applies like a dream over it, giving me a very smoothly textured base. I used Nars Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30++, as well as Burberry’s liquid and Chanel’s Perfection Lumiere.  These foundations lasted all day. I was surprised to find that my skin did not feel “oily” in any way–rather, the finish was more velvety. Truly a “best in class” primer.

Using so little, I can see that this bottle is going to last a very long time. Note that, according to Hourglass, the Nº 28 Primer Serum can be used as a night treatment and even to put on the ends of your hair as a conditioning treatment.

Some of you may be wondering how this compares to another of my favorite primer, Burberry Fresh Glow Luminious Fluid Base.  These really do serve two different purposes.  The Burberry is intended to add a glowy highlighter to the skin, but not to add any skincare properties. On the other hand, the Hourglass is completely sheer (no added glowy bits), but is intended to treat and moisturize. I really love both for different reasons, and I think you can see that those with dryer skin types (or those who live in dryer climates) are really going to love the moisturizing benefits of Hourglass Nº 28. And (because I know your wondering)–no breakouts from the Hourglass primer. Trust me, it’s always a concern.

Bottom line: Loved this best in class primer.

Ingredient list (from Sephora.com): Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Dimethiconol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Ceramide 3, Sphingolipids, Jojoba (Simmondsia Chinensis) Oil, Rose Hips Seed Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil, Green Tea (Camellia Sinensis) Oil, Olive (Olea Europaea) Oil, Hazelnut (Corylus Americana) Oil, Borage (Borago Officinalis) Seed Oil, Kukui (Aleurites Moluccana) Nut Oil, Cherry (Prunus Avium) Pit Oil, Tocopherol, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Linoleate, Panthenyl Triacetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Octyldodecanol, Dioctyl Succinate, Peg-8, Tridecyl Stearate, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Lithospermum Officinale Root Extract, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Citric Acid, Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia) Oil, Geranium (Geranium Maculatum) Oil, Rose Geranium (Pelargonium Roseum) Oil, Vanilla (Vanilla Planifolia) Oil, Clove (Eugenia Caryophyllus) Oil, Orange (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis) Peel Oil, Petitgrain (Citrus Reticulata) Oil, Amyris (Amyris Balsamifera) Oil, Benzoin Siam Absolute, Lemon (Citrus Medica Limonum) Peel Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Oil, Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Leaf Oil, Bois De Rose (Aniba Rosaeodora) Oil, Cedar (Thuja Occidentalis) Leaf Oil, Ylang Ylang (Cananga Odorata) Oil.

Hourglass Nº 28 Primer Serum was sent to Cafe Makeup without charge for consideration for review.

Lately I’ve been using very emollient eye creams (ah, the joys of beauty blogging!) Guess what’s in emollient eye creams? You guessed it–oil! Guess the best way to remove mascara (even waterproof mascara)? You guessed it again–oil!  The combination of an oily moisturizer and mascara is a recipe for disaster because you are wearing the mascara and a removing agent at the same time. Some eye creams gave me raccoon eyes as early as 10 a.m. Not a good situation, trust me. I decided to skip right over waterproof formulations and go the distance. I  checked out a fiber mascara.

Because I wasn’t sure that I’d like this type, I made a minimal investment of $8-9 at a drugstore to try out L’Oreal’s Voluminous False Lashes. I thought that if this worked well, I could go for some of the fiber mascara’s sold at Sephora (see here and here) and perhaps on some of the Asian makeup sites.

So, what’s the deal with fiber mascaras?

• Your lashes are coated in little fibers like this (from the L’Oreal package):

• Fiber mascaras tend to be super-waterproof  (although very hard to remove)
• Some are said to give a more dramatic effect

For the L’Oreal, I found that the claim of super-waterproofness was solid. I was able to put drops into my eyes without any problem whatsoever. Even the most emollient eye cream did not create any smudging. These are truly all-day lashes.

As mascaras go, I found that the L’Oreal fiber was respectable but not the most dramatic or volumizing that I’ve ever used. It has a dry texture. The first coat is devastatingly natural looking (if you want a natural look, you won’t be quite as crushed). I usually built up using three coats toward a pretty good everyday eye. It’s no Armani or Guerlain. But it is absolutely smudge-free.

As is common with this type of mascara, removal is a challenge. I used the Sonia Kashuk Eye Makeup Remover from Target ($10). I soaked a cotton pad with the remover, held it over my closed eye for about 20 seconds, and then the mascara came off easily by gently sweeping the cotton pad over the mascara. I found that this remover worked better for me than my traditional Shu cleansing oil.

The Sonia Kashuk smells has a vague rubbery smell. You know the smell that Barbie heads have, when they’re new? It’s unavoidable, think back. Yeah, pretty much that same smell. I may switch to the Lancome Bi Facil Eye Makeup Remover when the Sonia Kashuk runs out.

Thanks for reading about my little fiber mascara adventure. I’m going to use up a few more of my standard mascaras, then likely try another fiber brand from Sephora later this year. And invest in the Lancome remover.

Summer 2012 promises to be the summer of bright nails. Pictured here (top to bottom):

• Deborah Lippmann ‘Run the World (Girls)’ Neon Mini Nail Lacquer Set ($45/ currently at Nordstrom)
• Essie Poppy-Razzi Collection for Summer 2012 ($8 each)
• Thakoon for Nars ($18 each, now available on Nars website) (Lal Mirchi is only available online and at the 413 Bleecker Street Boutique)
• Le Metier de Beaute Ressort ($18, on Neiman’s website and elsewhere)
• China Glaze Summer Neon ($7 each retail/ available June 2012)
• Dior Summer Mix (available Summer 2012)
• Color Club Take Wing Collection (around $3 each, available now). Swatches on Scrangie’s blog.
• Zoya Beach Collection ($8 each/$48 for the entire set). Available now on Zoya.com.

They all look so good–it’s going to be so hard to choose!  Will you get into the bright citrus trend?

NARS Larger than Life Lip Gloss in Gold Digger ($26) is a pleasant, sheer, sparkling summer gloss. It works to add soft shine and shimmer over a lipstick, or on its on to add subtle shine to lips.

NARS Larger than Life Lip Glosses come with a tiny brush on the end, which applies the product quite well.  I find the texture very pleasant, it doesn’t feel sticky and I do get a respectable amount of wear time with these. There is a slight floral scent, which isn’t very noticeable to me a few minutes after application. It’s a feminine, pretty, glossy look. On Liz:

 Unlike the shimmery apricot gold Le Metier de Beaute Summerland (reviewed here), NARS Gold Digger’s shimmers are in a relatively sheer base. It softens the color underneath, but doesn’t cover it completely.

I think most of us need a good sheer shimmer in our collection, and NARS does the job beautifully. Although I recall MAC making similar colors in the past, I find myself unable to use many of the MAC glosses–the NARS texture is far better and (unlike MAC), has never caused me any breakouts or other concerns. Like so many other products in NARS line, Gold Digger is gorgeous, and works beautifully.

Here are a few products from MD Solar for protection. I’m hoping to test out the MD Solar Sciences Tinted Moisturizer (I’ll post a review when I can do so). They’ve got an excellent reputation based on reviews that I’ve read, and I’ve long been curious about them. Click to enlarge:

]]> http://cafemakeup.com/2012/05/07/md-solars-tips-for-melanoma-awareness-month/feed/ 5 http://cafemakeup.com/2012/05/07/metropolitan-costume-gala-2012-highlights-and-nars-looks/ http://cafemakeup.com/2012/05/07/metropolitan-costume-gala-2012-highlights-and-nars-looks/#comments Tue, 08 May 2012 02:58:51 +0000 Amy http://cafemakeup.com/?p=15512 [...]]]>

This evening’s Met Gala 2012 brought out the stars, including Kristen Dunst’s look by NARS makeup artist James Kaliardos:

]]> http://cafemakeup.com/2012/05/07/metropolitan-costume-gala-2012-highlights-and-nars-looks/feed/ 2 http://cafemakeup.com/2012/05/07/shu-uemura-essence-absolue-nourishing-protective-oil/ http://cafemakeup.com/2012/05/07/shu-uemura-essence-absolue-nourishing-protective-oil/#comments Mon, 07 May 2012 14:10:28 +0000 Amy http://cafemakeup.com/?p=15502 [...]]]>

Shu Uemura Essence Absolue Nourishing Protective Oil ($68/ 5 oz.) is a A-list product for hair. Although I’ve experimented with a shelf-full of leave-in conditioners, heat protectants, and oil, Shu Uemura offers a best-in-class that transforms dry ends into soft, healthy, shiny, luxurious hair with this very lightweight oil with the luxurious scent of camellia petals. It’s one of those rare hair care products that works extremely well and is an extreme pleasure to use.

I became curious about Shu’s Esence Absolue every since I saw this entry on Into the Gloss (what gorgeous hair!). I’ve long been impressed with Shu Uemura’s attention to both beauty and innovation, they are one company who typically delivers simply, effectively, and beautifully.  At this point, my search for a leave-conditioner is over. I have found my holy grail and it is Shu Uemura’s Essence Absolue.

Main points:

• This delivers glorious shine and moisture to dry areas of your hair. It seems to close down any frizzy areas, leaving remarkably soft, smooth, and healthy-looking hair behind.
• It acts as a leave-in conditioner, by delivering beneficial oils to the hair.
• The oil has a UV protectant.
• This is safe on color-treated hair.

Available here online and at certain salons. Ingredient list:  Cyclopentasiloxane, dimethiconol, camellia kissi/camellia kissi seed oil, ethylhexyl, mehtoxycinnamate, butylphenyl methylpropional, hexyl cinnamal, hydroxycitronellal, parfum/fragrance

Shu Uemura Essence Absolue was sent to Cafe Makeup without charge for consideration for review.

1.  Sunscreens– In sunny California, the summer sun has begun to show its smiling face. For me, that means gathering my hats and sunscreen. Yes, I know that this is important for anti-aging, but it can be life-saving as well. Did you know that for women ages 18 to 24, one in five does not apply sunscreen regularly? 

No matter how much you pay for your sunscreen, the key is to make sure you wear it. That’s why I’m so pleased to see NARS release a tinted moisturizer that claims SPF 30++, because no one can forget to wear sunscreen that’s in their foundation (I layer my Nars Tinted Moisturizer over Chanel SPF 50 sunscreen, above).  Even hats and other clothing can add sun protection. Currently, Bergdorf’s is donating 10% of sales of certain sun protection products to the Melanoma Research Alliance of certain products for May is Melanoma Awareness Month. Here’s one of the products from Cafe Makeup favorite Le Metier de Beaute:

Other Bergdorf products include:

• La Mer SPF 30 UV Protecting Fluid
• Sunday Riley Cashmere SPF 30+ Sun Defense
• Orlane Extreme Anti-Wrinkle Care SPF 30
• Laura Mercier Daily Face Shield SPF 40
• Lancome Benefait UV SPF 50+ Super Fluid Facial Sunscreen
• Chantecaille Ultra Sun Protection SPF 50 PA+++

Check out Dr. Marnie Nussbaum’s sun safe tips here on Bergdorf’s blog.

2. Omorovicza is a skin care line that I’m just beginning to test. The line was started by Margaret and Stephen de Heinrich de Omorovicza, who launched it at their spa in Budapest in 2006. Currently, the line is sold at Bergdorf’s and there is a comprehensive website as well. Today (Sunday, May 6th) is the last day to end their Spa Giveaway at a Four Seasons Resort. There is also a runner-up prize of over $1,000 worth of product.

Either sounds amazingly good to me… sign up here on Facebook.

3. Mother’s Day Shopping. It’s hard to find the right gift–I usually depend on L’Occintane to deliver a tastefully-packaged, luxurious, and thoughtful item. I settled on this Bouquet of  Thousand Flowers shipped to mine, together with some books that I hope that my mother will enjoy:

Right now, L’Occitane is running a gift promotion so that you can tuck some additional treats into your gift, with the code SPRING and a $65 purchase (also free ship with $25 purchase):

Elsewhere on the internet:

• The Beauty Look Book has me dying for this Haute House Hues collection from Le Metier de Beaute.
• The Nonblonde previews a new Touche Eclat Foundation from Yves Saint Laurent–10 years in the making and slated for sale in the U.S. in July.
• The British Beauty Blogger previews the Dior Summer Mix mini collection of glosses and nail polish.
• Nowness has this extraordinarily beautiful video that features a underwater mix of bursts of color and gorgeous glassware.
  
• Through a Glass Brightly on Nowness.com. More about the video is here.