Oct 092013

Chanel Fatal and Intution3a

There are two new Chanel Illusion D’Ombre Eyeshadows ($36 each)–the golden taupe Chanel Initiation and the rich cranberry-violet Chanel Fatal. If you love this formula, you will love both.

Chanel Fatal and Intution7

Chanel Initiation is a sparkling metallic gold-taupe that can be worn sheerly. The color applies with a warm golden sparkle. As many of us predicted when this formula was first release (I have one of each from the original release), seem to creep away from the sides of the packaging and slightly harden over the months. Note that the formula is still eminently usable–I continue to use those original colors–although I tend to use more pressure to pick up the color on my finger. The first Chanel Initiation that I purchased had this same effect (which I’ve since exchanged for the one pictured, above).

Chanel Fatal and Intution1 copy

Chanel Fatal is a deep cranberry-violet color with sparkle. Like Chanel Initiation, it can be applied sheerly or more opaquely. Fatal makes a nice crease/outer eye color to coordinate with Chanel Initiation.

Chanel Fatal and Intution2

Here are some comparisons with Chanel Ebloui, Chanel Convoitise, Chanel Emerveille (which you can see is shrinking slightly in its glass container), Tom Ford Guilt, and Giorgio Armani Eyes to Kill #15:

Chanel Holiday Eye3

Comparison swatches:

Chanel Holiday Eye7


Chanel Holiday Eye6

I’m a fan of Chanel Illusion D’Ombre shadows–they’re both quite elegant and I find Chanel’s sparkle well done. These two are consistent with the other shadows in the line.  I cannot imagine not getting these, personally. If you like the formula, these are both must-haves.

Both currently available at Nordstrom and elsewhere.

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Jun 222012

Chanel has released two new Illusion D’Ombres outside the U.S. market, including the pink-coral Illusion D’Ombre Abstraction and high-shine metallic gold Illusion D’Ombres Vision (28-29 euros each, depending on location). This is a gel cream formula introduced by Chanel during their Fall collection last year. My original six are still doing well–there is no sign of drying out or aging. Although the product tends to pull away from the sides, I understand that this is because the gel is cross-linked and so holds together rather than a traditional gel or creme. I tend to believe that explanation, they still seem as moist as the day that I first opened them.

Unlike the first series, Abstraction and Vision seem to be more opaque. The earlier six (particularly Epatant and Illusiore) have a texture that had complex inner layers of color that sheered out beautifully. Although Abstraction and Vision still have the magical texture, the color of both is more opaque, less complex, and (especially for the gold Vision) harder to sheer out.

Of these two, most readers will find Chanel Illusion D’Ombre in Abstraction suits most occasions easily. This is a color that looks almost coral in the pot, but applies as a soft pink pearl. I can see that this will pair well with Illusiore (or any other powder shadow in the violet category). Readers who dislike wearing pink on the lid should heed that instinct. This does lean pink when applied (Chanel calls it a “peach rose”). Abstraction’s light and pearly tone keep this from giving me a full pink-eye effect, particularly when mixed with another shadow. However, the other colors in the original six are much more in my comfort zone.

Chanel occasionally releases a color in its line that is over-the-top fantastic in the catwalk sense of the term. For many reasons, this is why I love the line–they are an haute couture design house, so it should be no surprise. Vision fits within that category–this is a highly-reflective shimmery, sparkling pot of gold. If worn full-force, it’s worthy of a high fashion moment. One might pat out the color or wear it sheerly. As one of the Cafe Makeup commenters noted, Vision is a gold version of Chanel Illusion D’Ombre Fantasme. I did experience a bit of fallout, and layering Vision takes practice because it can get a bit patchy. I got the best results mixing Vision with a moisturizer first–it allows the product to be worn sheerly without any patchiness.

Readers should note that Chanel Illusion D’Ombre in Vision is a high-reflect, glitter-rich product. The micro glitter in the other Illusion D’Ombre (except for Fantasme) is far more subtle than Vision. I experienced fall out during application, and the glitter twinkles a bit like a MAC Reflects–it’s prominent.

Here are swatches of Chanel Abstraction and Chanel Vision, applied both heavily and lightly. There is no moisturizer used in this image, these swatches are straight from the pots:

Another set:

 I have a feeling that Abstraction and Vision will go into a “don’t use much” category of Illusion D’Ombre, along with Fantasme. Abstraction can work with the new eyeshadow quad Variation released with this collection (review to come). Vision is a niche, glamorous product that is highly reflective, metallic and glittery.  I did find this makeup look wearing Abstraction on Emma Stone on Chanel’s Facebook page:

To Abstraction has been sheered out to get this look (or perhaps the lighting has washed out the color a touch). Either way, it looks amazing with Emma’s eyes. Here’s the complete break-down from the Chanel release:

  • Face: Le Blanc de Chanel Sheer Illuminating Base, then applied CHANEL Vitalumiere Aqua Hydrating Cream Compact Makeup SPF 15 in 10 Beige, buffed with a soft synthetic brush.
  • Eyes: I applied a wash of CHANEL Illusion D’Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow in Abstraction, a shimmery peach rose shade available in November. I finished the eyes with two coats of Chanel Inimitable Intense Mascara in Noir.
  • Lips: The focal point of the makeup was definitely the lip. I used CHANEL Rouge Coco Lip Colour in Rivoli. I love the contrast of a deep lip shade on fair skin; it’s always so arresting and takes a real commitment to wear. Only a girl with real confidence can pull it off with grace.


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May 022012

Every year, Chanel has been releasing an Asia-exclusive collection. For 2012, Chanel’s released a beautiful Le Blanc collection based on a brightening them previewed here at Rouge Deluxe. Last year, Nordstrom brought this collection to the U.S. during the July Anniversary sale, and I’m hoping that they do this year as well. I was able to obtain only two pieces (although I’d pick up more if I was able to find them from a U.S. department store or on Chanel.com.).

I was able to buy the Chanel Illusion D’Ombre in Rivière, from Chanel’s gel-like eyeshadow line (discussed here). Rivière is a soft silvery light mint, with the lightness and touch of sparkle emblematic of the Illusion D’Ombre line.

 As a person with blue-green eyes, I was concerned that this shadow would be “too green,” however I found that the color is quite silver, cool and light. Because of the texture of this shadow, the color does not apply like a block of mint at all–instead, it’s a touch of eye-brightening silver with a faint hint of mint. I like to pair this with Emerveille, although this formula plays very well with powder eyeshadows as well. Here are swatches of  Chanel Illusion D’Ombre in Rivière swatched lightly and heavily (I prefer to wear it lightly), and also a comparison with Chanel Illusion D’Ombre in Epatant (the other green in the Illusion D’Ombre line):

I agree with The Nonblonde that this is “gorgeous”–her thoughts about Rivière are here. Since she posted her review, Rivière has gone out of Strawberrynet.com (that was my source for this product as well).

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Jun 282011

After playing with the new Chanel Illusion D’Ombre Eyeshadows, I now have some thoughts to share.

Wear time: I experienced very good wear time.  My personal assessment is that these last as well as a powder eyeshadow on my lids, or better.  I have normal skin on the lids–not particularly oily, not dry.  I advise trying one color to judge your individual wear time–products can perform differently on different people.

How to Apply: Liz and I both agreed that dabbing these on with fingers worked best for us.  For use as a liner, we used the brush that was included with the shadow.  The thin edge did a nice job laying down the product in a precise line.

Incorporating the Look: I advise keeping the rest of your look matte, especially to start.  It is no surprise to me that Peter Philips paired these with Rouge Allure Velvet matte lipsticks on the runway.  These shadows can add a lot of glow.  To keep the emphasis on the eyes, and to avoid looking too shimmery, I powdered down my foundation.  I avoided high-shine lipgloss and added no highlighter on cheeks.

We’ve tried simple looks so far.  Here’s a close-up of Liz with a simple wash of Chanel Illusion D’Ombre in Ebloui (reviewed here) touched with Mirifique (reviewed here) under the eyes as a liner:

Although these shadows can be very dramatic, I found that this simple dark wash would be fine for the office.

We also played with layering.  Here’s Liz with Chanel Fantasme (reviewed here) over Ebloui for a high-glitter look:

We both found the formula fool-proof.  After playing with the combinations on the backs of our hands for a few minutes, we found them very easy to use.

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Jun 242011

Chanel Illusion D’Ombre Long Wearing Luminous Eyeshadow in Illusoire ($36 # 83) has the potential to be my favorite color of all of those released.  This is a smokey mauve shade that looks absolutely gorgeous when applied, due to its very subtle reflective shimmer and the overall play of the shade with light.  As with the others in the line (overview here), Illusoire has a gel-mousse texture that sits lightly on the lids.

I live for this type of neutral-with-an-edge color.  Unfortunately, I haven’t had much time to test out this beauty.  Except for a few swipes in my crease, which worked well over Epatant, I’ve yet to dig too deeply into this gorgeous color.

Nonetheless, I know that if I were waiting for more information about these shadows, I’d be wanting to see things as soon as possible. In that spirit, I’m hitting publish so you’ll have as much information as I do as soon as I can send it.  Here are some comparisons, with Illusoire swatched lightly, then heavily.  I’ve also shown that Illusoire has a deeper grey base that Chanel Ombre Essentielle Soft Touch Eyeshadow in Fauve (due in the U.S. in August/September).  Illusoire has more dimension and sparkle than Chanel Ombre Essentielle in Taupe Grise, still one of my favorite deep mauve-taupe colors.  I’ve also compared this with the mauve side of the Nars Habenera duo, as well as the lighter mauve-lavendar of Nars Nouveau Monde.

More swatches, which really shows how beautifully Illusoire catches the light:

And one final:

I’m promising to update you on wear time.  For now, this looks like it has real potential as a color.

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Jun 242011

Chanel Illusion D’Ombre Long Wearing Luminous Eyeshadow in Emerveille ($36 # 82) is one of those can’t miss eyeshadow washes for warm-toned women who would like to use the shadow as a light wash or an inner corner lightener.  Having used up two pans of Chanel Ombre Essentielle Soft Touch Eyeshadow in Abricot, which has a similar gold-peach color, it would have been impossible for me to miss getting Emerveille.  This is the crowd-pleasing color for those with a touch of gold in their skin tone.

Like the other eyeshadows in the Illusion D’Ombre series (overview here), Emerveille has a light gel-mousse texture that can be worn either sheerly or layered for more opacity.

Emerveille (meaning “marvel” or “wonder” in French) will look very sexy with Mirifique smudged as a liner.  I love a good black smudgy liner and gold-peach wash, don’t you?  Many will want to add a deeper shade to the outer corner or crease.  Illusoire or Epatant can be used quite nicely, or even a medium to deep brown powder eyeshadow should work well.

Here are some swatches and comparisons with Emerveille and other light glowy cream eyeshadows in my collection–here, MAC Rubenesque, MAC Vintage Selection and MAC Chilled on Ice.

Same eyeshadows, different lighting:

Last night I slept in Emerveille and woke up to find product still there–I’ll do an all-day test and update.

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Jun 242011

I’m officially declaring my love for Chanel Illusion D’Ombre Longwear Luminous Eyeshadow in Ebloui ($36 #86).  This deep cranberry shade has enough brown to be flattering on my skintone, so that my lids do not look red.  There is enough sparkle to keep me interested-it’s subtle but adds touches of light to this deep shade.  And this is one long wearing shade. My test was with no primer.  I wore it most of last evening and slept with it on through the night (for testing purposes–I don’t usually wear any makeup at night).  I worn it for the past eight hours in 90 degree heat. I have a very slight accumulation in the crease that can be gently finger-swept away.  The color that remained on the lid was still vibrant and opaque.

Still, considering that I’m not wearing any primer I was pretty impressed.  I’m not certain how many powder shadows would withstand that.

I love this color–as someone with “green with a touch of blue” eyes with red-mauve undertones in my skin, this brings out the best in my coloring.  The color is deep and pretty.  There is a pretty dimensionality to the way that it works with light, so that it does not make my eyes look smaller–rather, the color and tones draw attention to the eye.

Bottom line, one of my favorites.

If you’d like to see an eye look using Ebloui, Liz tried the shadow on as a wash with Mirifique as a liner here.

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Jun 232011

Chanel Illusion D’Ombre Long Wear Luminious in Epatant ($36 # 84) is a very Chanel color, at least in my mind.  This soft gray-green seems to appear in the first release of every major eyeshadow release over the past several years.  Somewhat similar tones appeared in the the Ombre D’Eau line, the Ombres Perlees palette for Spring 2011, and the Ombre Essentielles when they were first released.  It’s a neutral-with-an-edge that seems to look good on a wide variety of skin tones and eye colors, and seems to be a lovely shadow to go with the burgundy, browns, grays and blacks that we are sure to be wearing in the Fall.

As described in this overview post, Epatant (French for “amazing”) has a cross-linked gel texture that is a bit spongy in feel.  Epatant is a soft forest green, and the first color that I reached for when attempting to use these shadows for the first time.  This is a color that is well within the comfort zone of many women.  As with the other Illusion D’Ombre shades, there is a tiny clear micro-sparkle in Epatant.

I found that this applied easily with a soft dab and tap of my finger as a wash on my upper lid.  I was able to put down several layers to get a pretty opaque look without looking weighed down.  As with the other shadows in the line, this mousse-gel does not appear to emphasize any fine lines or imperfections on the lid.  Rather, it seems to add a very thin layer of pigment that looks rather smooth.  Also, the shadows are layer-able.  For example, I added Illusoire in my crease area over Epatant for a pretty mauve-green combination.

I’m indebted to Grace over at the London Makeup Girl for noting the resemblance between Chanel Epatent and Lancome’s Erika F. Here, you see Chanel Epatant applied lightly, then more heavily.  In the center is a swatch of the powder Lancome Erika F.  To the right are both Chanel Ombre Essentielle Soft Touch Eyeshadows–one in Vert Khaki and Khaki.

In bright sun:

Indoors with flash–you can see how these colors shift and reflect in different light:

One more:

As an aside, I suspect that this color was heavily used during the Chanel Fall 2011 couture show (discussed here):

I want to do more testing before I weigh in on the wear time with these.  So far, I’m having good luck.  In fact, I slept in Ebloui last night and woke up with most of it all (intentionally-the things beauty bloggers do!–I wouldn’t normally do that).  I’ll also have Liz try them, as her skin type is slightly different than mine.  Please look for an update in a week or so on wear time.


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Jun 232011

Chanel Illusion D’Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow in Fantasme (#36 #81) reminds me of the first time that I tried on MAC’s Reflects Pearl.  There is a breath-taking level of magical soft pearly sparkle that veils the lid.  Like diamonds on fresh snow, Fantasme catches the light in a gasp-worthy way.

You can wear Fantasme alone over the lid as a sheer wash.  I applied Fantasme with a light finger-pat over another color (Embloui) to try layering.  Unlike MAC Reflects Pearl, which is a loose pigment, I did not experience fall-out problems.  The product stayed where it was placed. As a colorless neutral, Fantasme will work well as a sheer sparkle wash over any color, including the rest of those in the Illusion D’Ombre line.  Note that many of the shades already have microsparkle, and so adding Fantasme will be adding a bit of diamond icing over them.  I haven’t tried Fantasme over any powder or other cream shadows yet, although I’ll update this after trying to do so.

The mousse-gel texture of these seems to skate over (or fill in) any imperfections in the lid.  Unlike more metallic-with-sparkle shades, I do think this can be worn by any age brave enough if used sparingly–perhaps just a tap in the center of the lid over a deeper color.  I was pleased that it didn’t add lines–I’m enjoying this mousse texture.

We can debate the merits of having a high-sparkle shadow in one’s arsenal for weeks, and I respect your views.  If you don’t want some magic in your life, keep going.  I wish to gently point out that you are reading the blog of someone who goes to Paris at every opportunity, so as you can probably tell I like to push things.  This has more sparkle than I’m comfortable using for an every-day brow highlighter.  Used in the inner corner, visible sparkles can be seen. Still, I have hope for myself that there’s room in my life (and therefore my makeup drawer) for 0.14 ounces of illusion.

I’m not kidding myself that this is a PTA-friendly or for a conservative office. It’s a party in a bottle.  I might consider it for a certain type of wedding.  I love having some fun in my makeup collection–I don’t mind a little sparkle for a night out and I suspect I’ll be arm-wrestling Liz over this one.

No one does sparkle as well as Chanel. I’ve said it for years.  Fantasme is no exception.  Chanel has a way of making the extreme acceptable as long as the woman wearing it realizes that she’s on the edge and uses it appropriately.

This can be worn nearly-opaque, I suspect for the most highly dramatic stage or spotlight occasions.  Swatches (heavy opaque on the left, sheered out on the right):


Another Fantasme swatch:

Bottom line–gorgeous for the right occasion.


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Jun 232011

Chanel Illusion D’Ombre Long Wearing Eyeshadow in Mirifique ($36 #85) is part of Chanel Fall 2011’s release of cream-gel eyeshadows.  You can read my overview of the line here.

Mirifique is a very intense deep back with multidimensional color that comes from microsparkle. I’m picking up touches of blue, although this color is quite subtle.  This is a very flattering liner.

The gel-like texture of these works beautifully as a liner. I found that it looked sexy because it can be easily smudged when first applied.  I used the enclosed brush, and wiggled it a bit during application to avoid a harsh too-defined line.  It could be applied very precisely right at the lash base. Because of the microsparkle, I did not bring the color all the way to my waterline– I tend to avoid using anything with sparkle that close to my eye for safety reasons and because I wear contact lenses. I used this for 14+ hours yesterday as a liner (through an hour of oral surgery!) without any movement.

Bottom label:

As you can see in the swatches below, Mirifique is a very deep black.  On the left, I’ve sheered it out for an all-over wash gray-black effect.  On the right, I’ve compared it to Chanel’s Ombre Essentielle Soft Touch Eyeshadow in Ebony #47, a matte near-black.   In outdoor sun with flash:


So far, so good.  I’ll update when I do a sheer wash on the lid to test staying power.

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