Trend Watch: The Contoured Cheek

 Bronzers, Chanel, Highlighter, Hourglass, NARS  5 Responses »
Oct 102011
 

This Fall, I’ve begun to notice a heavily contoured cheek used on the runway and in magazines.  For example, look at this look from last week’s Paris runway show of Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2012:

I noticed another heavily contoured look in this feature from the October ’11 Vogue in this androgynous take on the trend:

I was tempted to try this look, because I love nude blushes, light bronzers and highlighters and have several in my stash.  However, I did not want to apply the product so heavily and dramatically because the heavy application that you see in these examples seem best suited for a runway or fashion studio.  Some ways that I played with the look include using a deeper foundation shade on the lower cheek, and a subtle highlighter on the upper cheek.  This is the most subtle version of the contoured cheek that I can create.

Another is to use a deep blush and highlighter combination, such as the Chanel Soho blush/ highlighter that was released last Fall (limited edition)

If you prefer a cream version of the colors in the Chanel Soho palette, Nars Multiples in Maui and Luxor is a good substitute (swatches below).  I bought the Nars multiples as mini’s in this Sweet Disposition set.
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A third way is a highlighter/combination, including this Hourglass Illume Creme-to-Powder Bronzer Duo in Bronze Light ($40), which is sold at Sephora.  On the top of the compact, there is a champagne gold sheer highlighter.  On the bottom, the compact holds a warm-toned cream bronzer that runs to a medium-toned depth.  The top mirror keeps the compact sleek when stored, but can be swiveled up so that the large mirror can be used.
This Hourglass duo can be worn with the two tones applied separately to create a defined, contoured cheek.
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Alternatively, I can wear the bronzer more traditionally with the highlighter all over the cheek and on the brow bone. The Hourglass Bronzer duo holds one of the deepest bronzers that I can get away with, and I have to apply it sheerly to get it to work.  If you have a medium warm skin tone, you can be more liberal with the use of this bronzer. Those with cooler skin tones may find this duo is too warm.
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I also own Soleil Tan de Chanel Bronzing Makeup Base ($48) (swatched below).  The Hourglass bronzer is a traditional creamy texture that dries down to a powder on the skin and can be beautifully sheered out.  Chanel’s cream bronzer feels drier in the tub, and feels as though it contains some silicon.  Chanel’s is lighter in tone than the Hourglass.  The Chanel tub is a rather enormous 1.0 ounce;  the Hourglass duo holds .39 ounces of product in total (both bronzer and highlighter).
Here is a comparison of Nars Multiples in Luxor and Maui, the two shades from the Hourglass Illume Bronze Light compact, and a combination that I created the Soleil Tan de Chanel Bronzing Makeup Base and Edward Bess All Over Seduction in Sunlight ($38) (reviewed here).
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 Have you played with a contoured cheek?  What are your thoughts?
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Edward Bess Ultra Luminous Bronzer – Daydream

 Bronzers, Edward Bess  6 Responses »
Jun 222010
 

For summer, I’m taking a look at Edward Bess’ Ultra Luminous Bronzer in Daydream ($48 for 0.3 oz.)), a soft, natural bronzer. This bronzer has an understated elegance that I can easily and confidently wear.

It’s impossible to over-do it.  Unlike some bronzers I’ve tried (I’m looking at you, Giorgio Armani!), Daydream does not give the faintest hint of orange or cakey build-up when densely applied.  Yet, Daydream is not too subtle.  Unlike Guerlain Blondes, which can sometimes look a little beige even on my pale skin, Edward Bess’ Daydream is soft and easily picked up by the brush.  Daydream is an easy bronzer, even for those normally reluctant to add a little glow.

Daydream is sold in a large round compact with a mirrored lid.  The compact is very slim and easy to pack for travel.

This bronzer is very soft and natural—arm swatches simply do not do this product justice.  I asked my daughter Liz to pose for one picture without bronzer (on the left), then to add Daydream for a second picture (on the right):

Liz applied this product with a Sephora Bronzer Brush, added the color nearly everywhere, but more heavily on the chin, cheeks and forehead. As you can see, Liz’s picture on the left is her normal pale NC15/20 (Chanel Cameo in Tient Innocence Fluid) skin tone.  Adding Daydream for the picture on the right, Daydream’s almost-matte texture gives Liz a “your skin but better” glow.  The powder is very easy to work with, and seems to take away any oil-glow from being outdoors in summer.

  • Tutorial:   Bronzers can be used to sculpt and contour by focusing on the forehead, chin and cheeks.  Makeup artist Lisa Eldridge has done a lovely bronzer tutorial at her site.

Liz finished her makeup by adding a blush, here Nars Lovejoy, to finish her look:

Overall, I like Edward Bess’ Daydream bronzer for an everyday, subtle and sophisticated look.  It’s very appropriate for work or for a formal outdoor event where I want a bit of glow.  For example, if I were attending a wedding, business meeting or a formal lunch, this is the bronzer that I would reach for.  I can see myself purchasing Desert Sun, Edward Bess’ darker bronzer, for a more dramatic look and to add variety.

Stay tuned–this week, I am hoping to post a review for the newly reformulated Guerlain Blondes bronzer for a comparison.

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Edward Bess Eyeshadows- Intimate and Dusk

 Edward Bess, Eyeshadow  7 Responses »
Mar 242010
 

Edward Bess has been getting high regards from several beauty bloggers that, in my estimation, have high standards including The Beauty Look Book, The London Makeup Girl and The Pink Sith.  Recently, I placed a phone order from the Bergdorf’s counter in New York City for two Edward Bess eyeshadows–Intimate and Dusk ($30 each).

When I ordered, I wasn’t entirely sure of the difference between them and so my review for both is consolidated.  Although there are excellent swatches out on the Internet already, I had to play with them myself to see the comparison.

Overall, the texture of these two is excellent. The pigment is easily picked up by the brush, the powder is very soft and there is excellent color payoff.  They look almost matte in the pan and at some angles.  However, there is a discernible sheen to each.  Both have a very sophisticated look–the colors will look appropriate anywhere, anytime and no matter what else you are wearing.  They are truly universal.  Not sure what kind of eye to do? These are go-to colors that look gorgeous, understated and yet very polished.

All images can be clicked for a larger view.

Here is Intimate, the lighter of the two.  Its a soft light tan with a touch of gray.

Here is Dusk, a deeper complicated taupe:

Here are some swatches (no primer):

Here are more swatches because few of us are able to go to a counter to swatch.  These should also give you a better sense of the way that the texture looks in different types of light:

They look lovely as a wash of color with a matte ivory highlighter, or can be used together for a subtly contoured eye.  Highly, highly recommended for a gorgeous neutral look.

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Edward Bess Soft Orchid Blush Review and Swatch

 Blush, Edward Bess  15 Responses »
Mar 192010
 

Edward Bess powder blush in Soft Orchid (Blush Imperiele 01 Soft Orchid)($48)(0.12 oz.) is a cool pink-orchid blush that is beautiful for spring.  I purchased this blush sight unseen from the Edward Bess counter at Bergdorf Goodman in New York City.  Jennifer, who was very helpful during my call, told me that this blush is new to his line.  I’ve heard so many good reports about Edward Bess’ line from Sabrina at The Beauty Look Book, Grace at London Makeup Girl, Gaia at The Nonblonde and from so many sources on MakeupAlley.com, that I knew that I couldn’t go wrong.

The packaging is undeniable elegant– a slim black hard plastic case that is packaged inside a black suede sleeve.  Of course, the usual features including a large usable mirror and complimentary blush are included.  It is roughly the size of a Chanel compact only a bit slimmer.  Inside, there is a large rectangular pan.  The first thing that I noticed is that the blush sitting in the pan changes quite a bit in different light.  However, the blush applies as a stable cool pink-violet that did not appear to change in different light in the same manner.

This photograph represents my best estimation of how the blush looks in neutral light:

Here is a comparison picture, where the light from the left side is very cool and warm on the right.  As you can see, the pan color on each side of the photograph is quite different.  The color looks almost peachy in warm light:

Of course, this phenomenon happens with nearly every cool pink blush that I’ve tried to photograph so far (Chanel Turbulent especially!), so this is not unique to Edward Bess.

I’ve only owned the blush for a few hours, but wanted to post a swatch in case you are considering a phone order to Bergdorf’s.  As I say, this applies as a cool pink-violet.  At first, I thought that this might be duplicative of Chanel’s Narcisse, however as you can see there is more purple-violet in Edward Bess’ Soft Orchid.  You can also see that Narcisse seems to include a touch more shimmer (although Soft Orchid can be supplemented with a highlighter of course).

I’ve tried the blush for a few hours and so far–I LOVE IT!  I now understand the raves about this line.  I experimented with a few different application techniques, and found that the results varied greatly depending on the brush used.  It was extremely subtle effect with softer brushes, and most pigmented with my MAC 165 highlighting brush for concentrated color.   It gives a beautiful spring-like glow without adding any shimmery or glittery bits.  How Bess gets the light to interact with the blush pigment is beyond me, but I do love the effect.  Recommended!

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