Sep 122011
 

Dior has just released 5 Couleurs Couture Colour Eyeshadow Palette – Mitzah ($60/ #753), a more accessible version of of the highly limited edition, individually numbered Mitzah Panther Palette ($90)(reviewed here).  Unlike the panther palette, Dior’s Mitzah 5-color quint comes in the standard blue compact with the traditional Dior layout.

The palette evokes the Mitzah theme with a panther print on the surface of the eyeshadow palette:

The colors are:

  • a light shimmer cream highlighter
  • the center butterscotch-mustard
  • a soft shimmer camel tan
  • a medium taupe-gray
  • a rich brown
Here is a swatch comparison with Dior Mitzah Panther 3-color on the left, compared to the Dior Mitzah 5-color on the right:
Here is a quick eye that Liz did with the Mitzah 5-color.  She used the center tone as a base, then built up the darker colors in the outside corner and crease.
One more:
Overall, the Dior Mitzah palette is a sophisticated combination of colors.  The shimmer factor is subtle, and the tones blend beautifully together.  Mitzah does not have the iridescence of some Dior palettes, rather it is a toned-down set of neutrals that is nearly always appropriate.  Highly recommended.

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Aug 282011
 

Bobbi Brown Rich Color Eye Shadow in Sand Dune ($24 /#1) from her Marrakesh Chic collection is a sheer shimmery warm oyster-toned highlighter.

Sand Dune is one of the few shimmery shades in Bobbi Brown’s limited edition Rich Color Eye Shadow series (there is a light pink and a deep violet that are also shimmery). Sand Dune seems a welcome edition to this otherwise deep, largely suede-textured line, for that all-important inner-color highlight or browbone touch to add dimension.

 

Here are some swatch comparisons with some other light-toned shimmery shades in my collection:  MAC Femme Fi (limited edition, but subject to frequent re-release), Nars Abyssinia, and Chanel Lotus.  Just for fun, I added some opaque shimmers so that you could compare the sheerness factor–here, Bobbi Brown Chrome Eyeshadow in Pewter and Guerlain Sable Blonde (limited edition, no longer available).

Another, same shades:

One last, same shades:

Like the other colors in Bobbi Brown’s Rich Color series, Sand Dune is a great basic, believable highlighter shade.  Once you tell the waxy pigment that you are serious about picking up the pigment (use a stiff-bristled brush), it gives plenty of pigment.  As appropriate for a highlighter, there is a sheerness and lightness to the texture that prevents the force-field, metallic foil that can look dated (or perhaps, just a bit Jersey-licious).

I really like Bobbi Brown’s Rich Color series, and Sand Dune is a good addition to any collection.  As with the other shadows, I’ll express a bit of confusion about the limited-edition status of the shadows–all are good basics that seem like staples that can be used for years.

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Aug 282011
 

Bobbi Brown Rich Color Eye Shadow in Rich Slate ($24 /#5) from her Marrakesh Chic collection is a deep near-matte neutral very deep gray.

Bobbi Brown’s Rich Slate is a good, pigmented richly-toned gray.  Here are comparisons with Chanel Gris Exquis (reviewed here), the gray shimmery near-black from NARS Rajasthan duo (reviewed here) (what a gorgeous duo!), and a deep gray from Bobbi Brown–Steel from the round-pot era:

Had I realized that Bobbi Brown’s Rich Slate was tonally so close to Chanel Gris Exquis, I would have chosen between them rather than ordering both (Bobbi Brown’s is less expensive).  As with Bobbi Brown’s Coffee Bean and Rich Kashmir, Rich Slate has a waxy texture that requires a stiff-bristled brush but then delivers a good, consistent and strong pigment.

I understand that the Rich Color Eyeshadows are limited edition, although they are great basic colors for every day use and likely might function well in her permanent line.

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Aug 282011
 

Bobbi Brown Rich Color Eye Shadow in Rich Kashmir ($24 /#3) from her Marrakesh Chic collection is a deep matte neutral brown with a touch of grey.  Unlike Bobbi’s Rich Color Eye Shadow in Coffee Bean from this same series which leans red, Rich Kashmir is a brown that plays at the edges of grey and taupe.

Comparison swatches with Bobbi Brown Rich Color in Coffee Bean shows the Rich Kashmir is a softer, grayer tone than the deep, richer red-tone brown.  You can see that Rich Kashmir is not as gray as a taupe–both MAC Moth Brown and Chanel Taupe Grise are more gray.  Rich Kashmir is not as deep as MAC Magnetic Fields (limited edition, no longer available), or as purple as the deeper side of the NARS Habernera duo.

 Another in sunlight with flash:

I had to wonder why Bobbi Brown is releasing matte neutrals in a limited edition Fall collection.  Based on my experience with Rich Kashmir and Coffee Bean, both seem like great staples that are part of a permanent line.  I expect that the answer lies in the 758-page September 2011 Vogue, which seemed to feature page after page of matte eyeshadow looks.  Unlike Peter Phillips’ shimmery eye looks for Chanel for Fall 2011, Bobbi Brown’s trend for this season is all about rich basics that look deep and suede-like on the eye.

Like Coffee Bean, Rich Kashmir has a harder texture that works beautifully with a stiff-bristled brush.  As I detailed in the Coffee Bean review, this Rich Color Eye Shadow has a texture that packs plenty of pigment so long as you break through the long-wear texture by showing the pan that you mean business.  It applies beautifully (patting gets you more color, sweeping will get you less).  Rich Kashmir seems to blend with with other shades.  Highly recommended.

 On September 2, 2011, after this original review was posted, I received a Rich Kashmir eyeshadow from Bobbi Brown sent without charge for consideration and review.  I have not changed the original review since the time that it was first posted.

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Aug 172011
 

Chanel has recently released two new Ombre Essentielle Soft Touch Eyeshadows, always an occasion for rejoicing.

Chanel Ombre Essentielle in Twilight ($28.50 #89), part of the Sophisticated Eye Collection, is a cool candy pink:

Twilight has some sparkle and pigment. Here it is compared to Chanel Fauve (reviewed here), also released in the U.S. with the Sophisticated Eye Collection, the pink side of Chanel Irrellee Duo in Orient Express (now discontinued), Chanel Pink Lamé (a long-ago limited edition tweed effect eyeshadow, no longer available), Chanel Lotus and Chanel Sillage (reviewed here).

 Swatches:

As you can see, Twilight bears the closest resemblance to Chanel Pink Lamé.  Note that Twilight has more sparkle compared to Pink Lamé.  No other color is similar to Pink Lamé.  Also, you can see that Twilight would coordinate well with Chanel Fauve.  Another set of the same swatch colors:

Because Twilight runs blue, it does not have the unfortunate tendency of some pink eyeshadows to give a “rabbit eye” effect.  Like Pink Lamé, I can wear the color comfortably, preferably with Fauve or Chanel Taupe Grise (reviewed here).

I would expect that Twilight would coordinate beautifully with Chanel Ombre Essentielle Soft Touch Eyeshadow in Gris Exquise ($28.50 / no number provided).  Then again, Chanel Gris Exquis is a color that will coordinate with virtually everything.

Gris Exquis is a medium matte gray, that can be softly applied to create dimension in the crease, or softly smoke out a liner.

This is the color that Chanel suggests be used with Chanel Ombres Tissees in Beige (reviewed here).

Here are some comparisons with the second layer of Le Metier de Beaute’s Splendid Frost (reviewed here), Bobbi Brown Steel (discontinued), the darkest shade of the Edward Bess Soft Smoke eyeshadow palette (reviewed here), MAC Silver Ring, Guerlain Instant d’une Emotion (reviewed here).

Comparison swatches:

Another swatch set, same colors:

I’m a huge fan of gray eyeshadows (as you can probably tell from this post).  Because they tend to be slightly cool, they add a little kick of drama to my warm skintone but still manage to be quiet neutrals.  They work as a wash, or as a way to add depth to the crease.  Overall, I did not find an exact match to Chanel Gris Exquis in my colleciton, although the second layer of Le Metier’s Splendid Frost was the closest.

The texture of Chanel Gris Exquis is excellent–it is very soft and pigmented.  Unlike so many mattes that can go on chalky, Gris Exquis goes on buttery smooth.  It’s an excellent quality shadow that is very versatile.

Note that Chanel has also re-released Chanel Magic Night (reviewed here), and Chanel Fauve to the U.S. market (reviewed here).

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