Jul 302011
 

About a week ago, I went to the Burberry Beauty counter at Nordstrom San Francisco Centre for an event, and had one of the best makeovers of my life.  I wanted to record the products used and update you on my experiences with the Burberry Sheer Luminous Foundation (swatches of all shades here).

For the makeover (products used)

Base:

  • Burberry Fresh Glow Luminous Fluid Base as a primer (reviewed here)
  • Burberry Sheer Luminous Fluid Foundation No. 6
Face:
  • Burberry Light Glow Blush in Earthy (review forthcoming) as a contour
  • Burberry Light Glow in Tangerine (review forthcoming) on upper cheekbones as a blush
  • Burberry Fresh Glow Luminous Fluid Base around eyes, nose bridge and chin as a highlighter
  • Burberry Fresh Luminous Powder (forehead only)
Eyes:
  • Burberry Sheer Eyeshadow in Rosewood (reviewed here) as an lid wash and lightly under the lower lashline
  • Burberry Sheer Eyeshadow in Midnight Black (not pictured) as a liner
  • Burberry Sheer Midnight Brown (reviewed here) in the crease and outer corner
  • Burberry Sheer Eyeshadow in Pearl White (review forthcoming) heavily in the inner corner and lightly on the browbone
Lips:
  • Burberry Lip Cover in Nude Rose (review forthcoming)(reviewed here at The Beauty Look Book)

For the foundation update, I’ve been using Burberry’s Sheer Luminous Foundation for about a year.  I’ve finished one entirely (No. 5, my original color), and just repurchased a bottle in No. 6.

Burberry foundation is my go-to whenever I want a typical foundation that doesn’t affect my skin, looks polished and can be applied very quickly.  The U.S. labeling does not reflect this (the U.S. FDA is slow to recognize certain ingredients as sunscreens), but there are some physical sunscreen ingredients in it (I supplement with a sunscreen) (ingredient list is here).  It never clogs, it never irritates, and in many ways I prefer it to the former Chanel Tient Innocence.

When I was getting my makeover, the artist told me something that almost made me drop my nonfat decaf latte.  He said that it could be used as a heavy cover foundation.  Given that the name of the foundation includes the word “Sheer,” I had to know more.

As a former Armani specialist, he explained the Armani technique for applying foundation.  Having had an excellent foundation makeover at an Armani counter in Harvey Nichols/London years before, we were already speaking the same language.  Essentially, to start one brushes the foundation on very sheerly.  Second, one takes the brush and builds coverage only where needed.  Third, you do a quick finger-swipe to remove brush marks. He was right, of course.  This is a highly buildable foundation.  It didn’t look cakey at all–it looked just like…skin. He explained that he had been persuaded to work for Burberry Beauty based solely on his experience with their foundation.  It’s that good.

I hope that you find this little sketchbook helpful.  I’ll post reviews of the products that I haven’t reviewed yet as soon as I can.

This post contains affiliate links (for more information, see About Cafe Makeup)

Mar 162011
 

One of the most enjoyable parts of makeup shopping abroad is the ability to discover products that are not sold in the U.S. Chanel Vitalumiere Eclat Comfort Radiance Compact Makeup Foundation SPF 10 (56 euros) is a powder foundation that can be used either alone, or brushed on as a finishing powder.

The large Chanel-embossed compact is packed in a luxurious velvet pouch, slight thicker and plusher than the thin ones that come on most U.S. products.  Inside, there is both a brush (for lighter application) and sponge (for heavy application) included.

The finish is creamy and slight luminious, unlike the matte Double Perfection Compact sold in the U.S.  Although I am an NC15/Chanel Cameo, I was matched to B30 Beige Sable.  The instruction booklet that comes with the product indicates that the compact is refillable (approximate 40 euros), I will probably pick up a few more shades in the refill version while I am here to try out the different color range.

I wore this yesterday as a finishing powder over Chanel Vitalumiere foundation in B20, which was applied over the Le Blanc de Chanel finishing base.  I thought it looked fabulous, but it’s hard to be objective just after a lovely makeover in such pleasant surroundings.   I’ll do my best to update after more road tests.

Feb 232011
 

Chanel’s online site now has its new Vitalumiere Aqua online for sale, and I understand that it’s appearing at several Nordstrom locations.  Late last week, I got a few colors to try out the line.  Although I don’t have the range I would have preferred to select (I want them all!!), I’m doing my best to get you quick information as I receive it.

I got three colors:  B20 Beige, B30 Beige and BA30 Beige Rose.  I know, I was confused too (I was hoping for B10, BA10, and BA20 but here we are).  Swatches, compared to some of my current foundations for comparison:  Chanel Tient Innocence in 20 Clair Cameo, Chanel Lift Lumiere in 14 Ivoire and Burberry Sheer Foundation No. 4:

Another:

Generally, I enjoyed Vitalumiere Aqua. I have the following thoughts:

  • There is a scent–a very expensive sunscreen-type scent.  It fades after about 1/2 hour
  • Coverage is medium.  Vitalumiere Aqua seems to provide more coverage than Chanel Tient Innocence and Burberry Sheer.  It is about the same as Chanel Lift Lumiere.  It is not as heavy as Pro Lumiere.
  • Let the foundation dry before you judge it’s color.  Honestly, wait at least five minutes before you commit to a color.   There is a color shift that happens as the foundation settles into your skin.
  • Although B20 looks dark in the swatch, it actually looked pretty nice on my MAC NC15 skin tone (Liz confirmed it, and she can be quite honest! Trust me!)  Unfortunately, I did not have a B10 sample to compare it but I’m working on it.
  • Like several other Chanel foundations, the foundation tends to look better throughout the day.  It’s quite long-lasting (12 hours at least).
  • The texture is slightly toward matte on the B20 that I tried, but still luminous.
  • SPF 15 sunscreen included (octinoxate 6% and titanium dioxide 5.6%).

The numbering system still isn’t sorted out in my mind. First, BR 30 seems much darker than B30.  B30 is only slightly darker than B20.

I hope you find this useful.  If you have more information (I’m trying to get some more myself), please leave it in the comments.

 

Dec 042010
 

I’m always on a quest for the latest and greatest, and have been noticing a recent surge in new foundations.  I’m hoping that this means that we are moving forward into a new era of product formulations.  At any rate, I thought it might be useful/fun to collect some of my research here.  Do you know of any new foundations about to be released?  Have you tried anything new that you’d recommend/or not?

I don’t own any of these yet (except for Le Metier de Beaute’s), so please consider this post is a scrapbook of new foundation ideas and not recommendations because I’ve never tried most of these or compared them (although several look intriguing).

All pictures are clickable:

1.  Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua ($45)

 

A “new generation” texture from Chanel.  I cannot wait to try this one, which is rumored to be a replacement for Chanel’s current Tient Innocence Fluide.  Vitalumiere Aqua is said to be water based, although based on my reading so far the texture is creamy but applies very lightly and sheerly.  There are three tones:

  • Beige which is normal to warm
  • Rose Beige which is rose-based
  • Beige Ochre which is natural (and not released in the U.S.)

Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua comes in a very limited color range, has SFP 15 and a “crystalline fragrance.”

2.    Guerlain Lingerie de Peau ($56)

 

Liz and I had the chance to try this out during our Guerlain makeover in San Francisco, discussed here.  Lingerie de Peau is a light-to-medium coverage foundation that looks remarkably like natural skin.  The technology relies on a series of silk-like fibers to fuse to the skin while creating a re-texturized surface.  It looks very soft and pretty, the effect is very natural.  It was extremely pleasant to use, and if you have very pale complexion the range goes up to quite a pale shade (I’m very pale–Chanel Cameo / MAC NC15 and I was matched to Lingerie de Peau 30).  A definite contender.

Lingerie de Peau has an SPF 20 and a scent which fades on application.

Continue reading »

Nov 122010
 

In September, I spoke to Dustin Lujan at Le Metier de Beaute‘s counter at Bergdorf Goodman, who did a makeover with Le Metier de Beaute Peau Vierge Anti-Aging Complexe Tinted Treatment ($125).  I had recently read about the product on The Non Blonde, a blog that I highly respect.

As I averred to previously, Le Metier seems particularly concerned about the ingredients that one puts in contact with one’s skin.  Indeed, when he saw my skin, Le Metier’s Dustin immediately recognized that I had been using a mineral makeup.  Without my telling him.  Just from looking at my pores. He recommended that I stop immediately, and that my skin would look better in seven days.  He was right.  An area of my cheeks which had become clogged looked clear within a week–a problem that I had been trying to deal with using retinol (Avene Diacneal), the Clarisonic toner and a toner for several months. He’s really good.

He also recommended that I try Peau Vierge to improve the quality and tone of my skin.  At the time of my makeover, my skin care concerns are complicated by two things–first, I live on the West Coast of the U.S.  It’s sunny here, and I’ve been living here for quite a while.  Also, I love to walk outdoors in the summer.  Yes, I wear sunscreen (sometimes up to 100 spf with a hat), but I’ve only recently switched to European sunscreens.  When I started getting skin color with a U.S. sunscreens rated at 100 spf, I began to suspect that the U.S. brands are not effective in blocking light.  I had some dark patches on my forehead, and some that seemed to recently appear on my cheeks.  Also, I had been wrestling with a summer chin breakout that threatened to leave discolorations.

Last September, I asked Dustin to ship Peau Vierge to me in connection with Bergdorf’s September beauty event (they have these events periodically), which would net me a $25 discount on this $125 product.

Peau Vierge is a sheer, lightweight tinted skin care product.  This is intended to accomplish several things–first, provide a beautiful finish with very sheer coverage.  Second, to deliver all-day benefits that include correcting discoloration and deliver anti-aging benefits.  For example, Le Metier represents that Peau Vierge has retinol delivered through unique delivery technology called “Syntoc Actif,” which encapsulates the Retinol and allows it to safely and effectively penetrate the skin. According to the line, “traditional over-the-counter products have very poor penetration—less than 2% of active ingredients are actually absorbed. In comparison, with Syntoc Actif, 20 times more Retinoic Acid is absorbed into the deeper skin layers, making it the most effective cosmetic Retinoid treatment on the market.”  Sign me up.

For these reasons, Peau Vierge be applied directly to the skin without using any base, primer, or diluting it with another foundation.  For that reason, I adopted Dustin’s advice to wear Peau Vierge as my first layer of foundation, then brushing a second sheer foundation over the top where needed (in my case, Burberry Beauty’s Sheer foundation).

I’ve been using Peau Vierge four or five days a week since early October.  Peau Vierge made my skin look noticeably better in the first week, and I’ve noticed continual improvement since then.  The dark areas on my forehead have faded to the point where I no longer need a concealer on them–foundation is fine.  My skin is completely clear-no acne or clogged pores.  The discoloration on my chin area from my summer breakout has faded considerably to the point where it can be covered with foundation only, no concealer necessary.  I’ve been using less and less Burberry foundation, sheerer and sheerer layers as time has gone by.  Peau Vierge makes my skin look younger, clearer, brighter and is gradually removing discolorations.  I will say this, Lisa Eldrige once said that nothing is more aging than discoloration. So true!  Very young skin is bright and even.

At this point, my skin has improved so I am considering using Peau Vierge foundation alone, and purchasing the Peau Vierge concealer (this has the same skin care benefits) to use for any remaining patches of concern.  Yes, I know $125 is a breathtaking price for a foundation.  This comes from someone who owns plenty of foundations in the $50-70 range, and I’d rather not pay that much.

Peau Vierge is worth it to me.  It is not only that it contains skin care–rather, it is because it contains skin care that works.  No over the counter skincare has ever been this effective for me.  I’ll certainly re-buy because I love, love, LOVE the results.

Ingredient list:  Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Propylene Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Dimethicone, Disodium Lauriminodipropionae Tocopheryl Phosphate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Magnesium Chloride, Potassium Chloride, Sodium Chloride, Lysine, Penax Ginseng Root Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Anthemix Nobilis Leaf Extract, Camelia Olefera Leaf Extract, Phytantriol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocpheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Tetrahexyldecyl Acorbate, Aluminium Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Boron Nitride, Glycerin, Palmitic Acid, Dextrin Palmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Dehydrocetate, Retinol, Polysobate 20, Methicone, Phenoxythenol, Methyparaben, Proplyparaben.  May contain: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides.  Active Ingedients:  Titanium Dioxide 5.0%, Zinc Oxide 5.0%.