Skin Care - Café Makeup

Some Thoughts About Shiseido Urban Environment Tinted Sun Protector SPF 43

Foundation, Shiseido, Skin care 21 Responses »

May 082013

Shiseido Tinted Sun Protection06

As much as I love a new color palette or bronzer, at the beginning of every day I also think about protecting my skin. Lately I’ve been considering summer options for base makeup. I live in Northern California, and the climate can be dry and bright. I have combination skin that is warm and light (Chanel Ivoire/Cameo and around a MAC NC15). I decided to try Shiseido Urban Environment Tinted UV Protection SPF 43 ($30/ 1 oz.) (available in 3 shades, I’m using #2). This one is easy to miss, it’s a quiet product that is worth a look.

Shiseido Tinted Sun Protection07

This is a tinted sunscreen in a cosmetically elegant makeup base that feels lightweight and a touch moisturizing. On application, I do not detect any strong scent. The coverage is on the lightweight side of medium, but far closer to the medium category. It covers about as well as many foundations, slightly more than Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua (the Shiseido feels more moisturizing than Chanel). The Shiseido is very comfortable when applied.

Shiseido Tinted Sun Protection05

It’s notable that Shiseido is offering this level of sun protection in a cosmetically elegant makeup base for $30, when the prices of other lines are pushing $40-90. Shiseido’s Urban Environment Tinted UV Protector looks like a true foundation, particularly when compared to the Elta MD Physical Sunscreen which feels and looks much heavier and drier. Shiseido’s has a pretty, natural sheen. This Shiseido Tinted Sun Protector does have dimethicones listed in the ingredients, is advertised as “oil free,” and has not shown any signs of pore clogging or breakouts (your mileage may vary, of course).

Shiseido’s Tinted UV Protector takes a few minutes to dry down. I usually wait and do my eyes/hair in the meantime, because applying blush over a wet foundation can be a one-way ticket to patchy-town. If I’m in a real hurry, I grab my duo-fibre brush and apply a quick dusting of Nars Light Reflecting Powder (loose), which settles everything down. I really like the SPF 43 features of the product, although to be safe I use a layer of sunscreen underneath as the sun can be quite unforgiving where I live. According to Shiseido:

Contains SuperVeil-UV 360™ offering comprehensive protection of the skin’s surface and Profense CEL™ protects cells and DNA and helps inhibit enzyme activity, which are the causes of wrinkles and uneven skin tone.
Thiotaurine and Rose Apple Leaf Extract are effective in inhibiting oxidation caused by external environmental factors.
Water resistant (40 min) but easily removable with regular cleanser.

My experience with Shiseido sun care products in the past has been quite good–they seem to know their business quite well in the sun protection area. Active ingredients:

Inactive ingredients (click to enlarge):

Let’s talk about stability. Shiseido Tinted UV Protector seems like a really good option for skin that leans a bit dry. I have combination skin, and on days when the temperatures are in the moderate range (the 70′s), the foundation was very stable. I got a good 10 hours without any shifting or fading. Note that I’m wearing Nars Light Reflecting Powder, which acts as a setting powder and does help. On very warm days (into the ’90′s, or 30′s Celsius), I start to get a “glow” on my forehead about 3-4 hours application (this also happens with Diorsnow BB Cream). Still, Shiseido Tinted UV Protector gives me stable coverage despite the glow–it doesn’t shift or fade, but I do have to powder down. Even with my combination skin, I love it because the texture looks nice, natural, and has a pretty finish. This one’s going to get used up.

Here are some swatch comparisons with some other foundations that I have on hand–Nars Tinted Moisturizer in Alaska, Chanel Pro Lumiere in Cameo, and MAC Pro Longwear in NC15.

If you are looking for something similar with a broader shade range, has more coverage, and that stays matte longer in the day (and doesn’t feel quite as moisturizing), I’d go with Shiseido Sun Protection Liquid Foundation. (I’m planning to do a “foundations for hot, humid weather” overview soon–spoiler alert, this Shiseido foundation makes the cut). By comparison, the Shiseido Tinted UV Protector has slightly less coverage, feels more comfortable, and has more a more luminous, natural sheen. Here’s a picture so you can see it blending into the skin:

Shiseido Sun Protection Tinted2

Available at Nordstrom and at all other Shiseido counters. Like this Sun Protection Liquid Foundation, the Tinted UV Protector is found on the sun/skin care display, not with the standard Shiseido foundations/BB Cream.

This post contains affiliate links. For more information, see About Cafe Makeup

Omorovicza Gold Flash Firming Serum Review

Skin care 1 Response »

May 182012

Yesterday, I posted my first review of an Omorovicza product, the Omorovicza Deep Cleansing Mask, where I discussed some of the line’s origins and philosophy. I’ve also been using Omorovicza Gold Flash Firming Serum ($215). This lightweight, nourishing product is intended as an anti-aging product that uses gold and other active ingredients to re-texture and repair skin. Here is some of the line’s background about the ingredients in the product:

Gold, a powerful anti-inflammatory, repairs accumulated micro-damage to strengthen the skin.
Polypeptides (Palmitoyl Tripeptide and Caprooyl Tetrapeptide) to strengthen proteins such as collagen and elastin for renewed elasticity and vitality.
Vitamin C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) to enhance skin tone and helps reduce the appearance of age spots; which also boosts the synthesis of collagen and elastin to help restore elasticity.
Watercress extract and zinc promote brighter, more even, skin by inhibiting the production of melanin.
Sodium Hyaluronate provides long lasting hydration to the skin.
The ingredients are delivered via Mineral Cosmetology, a patented mineral delivery system designed to leave skin firmer, more supple and younger-looking.

The Gold Flash Firming Serum is very light in texture, it applies easily (no pilling), and absorbs into my skin within a few seconds. Other than adding the subtlest sheen on the skin, the product is invisible and the soft powdery citrus scent (which is extremely pleasant) fades quickly. It leaves no “emollient” feeling on the skin, so all skin types can use the product.

As you likely know, serums are intended to provide a long term effect–they are intended to restore, improve, and repair. Although many add hydration, those with dry skin typically add a separate moisturizer (a serum is not a substitute, but a supplement, to a moisturizer).

After using Omorovicza Gold Flash Firming Serum for two weeks, I found that the texture of my skin improved. If I look closely at my skin in bright sunlight, I can see that the product does seem to have strengthened and repaired portions of my skin that I may have stressed out by testing some harsher products (there’s an area on my cheek and near the bottom of my eye that look visibly better) My face feels firmer, and the skin has a healthy glow.

Ingredient list (click to enlarge):

The serum is very gentle and lightweight, typically I put it on first, followed by moisturizer on drier skin days, then sunscreen over it. It goes on like a dream, really. Beautifully formulated, gorgeous product.

Omorovicza Gold Flash Firming Serum was provided to Cafe Makeup without charge for consideration for review.

Hourglass Nº 28 Primer Serum Review

Hourglass, Primer, Skin care 9 Responses »

May 152012

Hourglass Nº 28 Primer Serum ($65) is a best-in-class primer for dry skin. According to Hourglass, the “28″ in the name refers to the key ingredients in the primer, which includes 14 essential oils, 10 lipid-rich plant oils, and 4 vitamins. I’m no stranger to using rich and essential oils on my skin, having used Rodin’s legendary Olio Lusso for the past year whenever my skin feels dry and in need of nourishment. I’ve finally learned that even my combo-oily skin can benefit from the caring properties that well-chosen oils can bring.

Unlike Olio Lusso, Hourglass Nº 28 Primer Serum is a true primer intended to act as a hydrating base for foundation. In my opinion, the ideal user for this product has dry (or combo-to-dry) skin, and is concerned about anti-aging because the treatment properties are an important part of this treatment. The scent is light and pleasant, to my mind it seems like a slight floral with a touch of sandalwood. I find the scent far more pleasant and unobtrusive compared to Olio Lusso. I didn’t notice the scent after about 1/2 hour after application (and that’s being generous).

The product applies as a sheer liquid. With this product, you do not need very much to get a velvety base–I used at most three little droplets. It absorbs quickly. My liquid foundation applies like a dream over it, giving me a very smoothly textured base. I used Nars Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30++, as well as Burberry’s liquid and Chanel’s Perfection Lumiere. These foundations lasted all day. I was surprised to find that my skin did not feel “oily” in any way–rather, the finish was more velvety. Truly a “best in class” primer.

Using so little, I can see that this bottle is going to last a very long time. Note that, according to Hourglass, the Nº 28 Primer Serum can be used as a night treatment and even to put on the ends of your hair as a conditioning treatment.

Some of you may be wondering how this compares to another of my favorite primer, Burberry Fresh Glow Luminious Fluid Base. These really do serve two different purposes. The Burberry is intended to add a glowy highlighter to the skin, but not to add any skincare properties. On the other hand, the Hourglass is completely sheer (no added glowy bits), but is intended to treat and moisturize. I really love both for different reasons, and I think you can see that those with dryer skin types (or those who live in dryer climates) are really going to love the moisturizing benefits of Hourglass Nº 28. And (because I know your wondering)–no breakouts from the Hourglass primer. Trust me, it’s always a concern.

Bottom line: Loved this best in class primer.

Ingredient list (from Sephora.com): Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Dimethiconol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Ceramide 3, Sphingolipids, Jojoba (Simmondsia Chinensis) Oil, Rose Hips Seed Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil, Green Tea (Camellia Sinensis) Oil, Olive (Olea Europaea) Oil, Hazelnut (Corylus Americana) Oil, Borage (Borago Officinalis) Seed Oil, Kukui (Aleurites Moluccana) Nut Oil, Cherry (Prunus Avium) Pit Oil, Tocopherol, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Linoleate, Panthenyl Triacetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Octyldodecanol, Dioctyl Succinate, Peg-8, Tridecyl Stearate, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Lithospermum Officinale Root Extract, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Citric Acid, Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia) Oil, Geranium (Geranium Maculatum) Oil, Rose Geranium (Pelargonium Roseum) Oil, Vanilla (Vanilla Planifolia) Oil, Clove (Eugenia Caryophyllus) Oil, Orange (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis) Peel Oil, Petitgrain (Citrus Reticulata) Oil, Amyris (Amyris Balsamifera) Oil, Benzoin Siam Absolute, Lemon (Citrus Medica Limonum) Peel Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Oil, Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Leaf Oil, Bois De Rose (Aniba Rosaeodora) Oil, Cedar (Thuja Occidentalis) Leaf Oil, Ylang Ylang (Cananga Odorata) Oil.

Hourglass Nº 28 Primer Serum was sent to Cafe Makeup without charge for consideration for review.

Skin Care Advice from David Colbert, MD, Part 1

Skin care 25 Responses »

Jul 072011

David A. Colbert, MD is a recognized leader in skin care. Formerly a dermatological research consultant for Chanel, he is the founder and head physician of New York Dermatology Group. He is board certified by the American Academy of Dermatology and board eligible in Internal Medicine. He has a private practice in New York City, and receives raves from his clients. He also sells a comprehensive skin care line, and has authored “The High School Reunion Diet.”

As much as I love the convenience of over-the-counter skin care, I realize that there is no substitute for getting the advice of a professional. Recently, Café Makeup was given the chance to ask Dr. Colbert skin care questions, which I accepted in a heart beat. A free consultation with Dr. David Colbert that I can share with Café Makeup readers? Yes, yes, a thousand times yes.

I had recently been thinking a lot about skin care, and so I asked a total of eight questions. I’ll share four of these in this post, then the remainder in a second post. I was so grateful that Dr. Colbert provided thorough, thoughtful answers for us:

1. What should a woman do in her 20′s for skincare? Is it too soon to start an anti-aging regime?

It’s all about prevention. Sunblock, sunblock, and sunblock. Don’t drink more than 3 alcohol drinks per week. Never smoke. Throw out all processed foods and read The High School Reunion Diet. No soda, no fruit juices unless fresh-squeezed. When you reach 29, think about a few drops of botox and start doing light TRIADs which include microdermabrasion, laser toning and fruit acid peels to keep you looking 20 through your 30′s.

2. Many women use prescription RetinA for anti-aging. Is this necessary? Are there over-the-counter products that can deliver the same (or better) results without the side effects of increased sensitivity to the sun?

RetinA is one of a type of drug–a relative of Differin and Tazorac. They do the same thing by increasing collagen in the deeper layers of skin. The closest thing to RetinA over the counter is the Colbert MD Intensify Discs. They contain bromelaine a pineapple enzyme, lactic acid, glucosamine and a microdermabrasion sheath to magically help boost collagen production. Retinol alone isn’t enough to get that collagen boost.

I like RetinA for anyone with acne or over 30. If you dry out from it add Colbert MD Heal and Soothe Cream. For light daywear with makeup, we recommend Nutrify & Protect with goji berry extracts.

3. Is there anything that can be use to safely remove dark spots from too much sun exposure?

Over the counter kojic acid containing products or glycolic and lactic acid products will help reduce brown spots. If you combine this with Stimulate Serum and Intensify Discs, you can really make the skin lighter and brighter.

Lemon juice (Not lime! It only makes it worse!) on a Qtip was what my norwegian grandmother Delia Olsen used in her 1940s beauty salon on brown sunspots and it is a home remedy. Prescriptions like Epiquin gel 4% work well also and are safe.

4. Now that summer is coming, should a woman consider changing her skin care regime from the winter months?

You can go lighter on your products, and save the heavy creams for fall and winter. Pick a light sunblock. Use a light over the counter benzoyl peroxide wash a few times per week on your face and back to prevent summer acne. Also, Add a vitamin C serum or Stimulate Serum to keep skin tone even.

Pay attention to the weather. On rainy day, you can skip everything and give your skin a break.

Café Makeup will post the rest of the Q&A’s with Dr. Colbert soon….

Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse

Skin care 4 Responses »

Apr 042011

Nuxe is very popular line sold in France, it is available at nearly all pharmacies and beauty stores. As a bit of background, selling a product in a pharmacy does not necessarily classify a product as a “drugstore” line the way that we categorize products in the U.S. Some French pharmacy products can reach up (or perhaps even over) the 100 euro price mark. Fortunately, Nuxe is not one of the more expensive drugstore lines.

I’m a firm believer in the thought that if I wanted to know the skincare secrets of the French, I have to know a little bit more about the skincare that they actually use. Nuxe is well known as an affordable, effective skincare line. Perhaps one of the most popular Nuxe product is the Huile Prodigieuse, which is sold in both the clear version that you see pictured, and a shimmery version that can be used to add gold shine bits over a summer tan. This sells for around 20 euros for a large 1.6 ounce bottle, and is available for shipment to the U.S. here on Le Guide Sante.

As a dry oil, Huile Prodigieuse is intended to be used on the face, hands, body and hair to add moisture. There is a very light, pleasant scent that seems to fade after an hour or so. The product is made in France, and the label reads that it is 98% of natural origin. I’ve used the clear version for the last several days, and find that application after a shower or bath helps me feel very pampered and with very soft skin. Although this is not the shimmery version, Nuxe’s Huile leaves the skin with a slight, moisturized sheen. It absorbs in about five minutes, and leaves no color on the skin. I was not surprised to see men buying Nuxe products in the stores, including some items from their summer bronzer line.

When I first arrived in France, I bought an inexpensive hand moisturizing cream from Sephora, called Sephora Nourishing Hand Cream in Hard Candy (around 7 euros). I strongly prefer the Nuxe Huile Prodigiuse, as there is no “creamy residue” feeling afterwards. Nuxe’s oil dries down so that the skin on my hands feels like….actual skin. Not cream-coated skin.

Nuxe’s Huile Prodigieuse is a good, everyday and very well-priced moisturizing product. I like that it’s no-fuss, works everywhere and does not break out my skin. It provides a nice, light, moisturizing feel on the skin. Highly recommended.